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Hi bee uteyQuote:
Originally Posted by bee utey
That does ring a bell for the depths, I believe that the conduit should be orange for power, white for phone and light grey for the cat 5. could be wrong though! please check with someone that has a current cableling licence.
Cheers Arthur
Blue paint for water
Yes, my present conduits are orange for power and grey for phone. I doubt I can use the orange conduit for new wiring as it has a few sharp right angle bends - not the large radius bends one would expect. I'm not sure that we could pull new wire through it. The existing power conduit is also very close to the surface (less than 200mm) near the garage as I found this week whilst digging a trench for drainage - another reason I want to run new ones.
600mm trench depth as mentioned by Bee Utey sounds familiar. I think I need to go an hire a machine. I just don't want to hit the sewer which runs across the yard and under the garage (There are two sewer access points in the garage floor).
I suppose I now need a licenced cabler for the phone, etc. Mine was done when I was a Principal Technical Officer in the telecomms business and one didn't need an Austel licence.
It's more an issue of knowing what needs to be operated to isolate a circuit.Quote:
Originally Posted by rovercare
Years ago, I was in charge of a maintenance workshop in OTC Head Office. The electrician in Head Office was one of my blokes but he was a bugger for NOT maintaining wiring records. His method of finding live circuits before I took over the section was to just cut the cables with his pliers (Crescent brand). Live circuits blew the cutting jaws away. He soon stopped that when I refused to replace his pliers. He still wouldn't maintain wiring records, though.
At least my electricians when I managed the OTC Paddington and Broadway international telecomms buildings did do their job properly.
Different standard no. AS1103 Item Designations. May have been replaced by an IEC no.Quote:
Originally Posted by p38arover
You won't find that info in AS3000 Wiring Rules.
Wouldn't worry about it. CB1 is just fine.
A little hint, Install the cables as you lay the conduit. Its much aesier than pulling the cable after.
seconded and that also lets you get the cable through some seriously bent up routes. just go one section of the conduit at a time, a bit time consuming but less consuming than if the cable jambs and you snap the pull through.Quote:
Originally Posted by Mick_Marsh
power needs to be 600 deep in H/D conduit, you need to install underground power line marking tape at 300 deep on top of the power conduit. Comms stuff in comms conduit at 300 is fine.
Your sparky by law has to label the switchboard anyway, but more than likely he will just put power stickers under the power circuits and light stickers under the light circuits. If you were to label it CB1, then you should label all the applicable power points CB1 etc...
i'd run 6mm2 TPS minimum to your shed, good for 32Amp, possibly 40A depending on how its run.
14A is a big split sytem, or an old one
Ahh. I don't have AS1103. I may have to go back to where I used to work to download it.Quote:
Originally Posted by Mick_Marsh
I have a spring steel coiled pull through. I want to have as much prep work done for him as possible (whoever it ends up being).
Whoever wired the garage up before we bought the house didn't bury it very deeply and didn't put tape above it.Quote:
Originally Posted by Vern
The labelling on the board is what I did a few days ago. It's temporary until the job is done then they will be replaced with computer generated and printed labels. The original labels done by the sparky were just as you stated.
The aircon is the old WeatherWall that I removed from the front of the house a couple of months ago (it was replaced by a ducted system). I either install it or find a way to get rid of it.
I'll open up the junction block to see what wire is currently used for the feed-in. I suspect smaller, possibly 4mm2, because of the pulsing lights when my 13CFM air compressor is running.
I have just connected the shed up to power.
I ran all of the cables internally myself, and also a 6mmTPS to the main box. This is 800 - 900 underground in orange hd conduit, 300 cover, then cat 5 & alarm cables in another conduit, another 300 cover, warning tape, 200 cover and then more tape just under the surface. This is mainly so that I know where it is when I start to run the irrigation pipes, and know if I hit the first tape, I still have a bit of distance before hitting the next one.
All the internals in the shed were run inside conduit, and each GPO is numbered, and on its own circuit.
I've measured the cables to the garage.
From the main switchboard at the front of the house to the rear (about 18 metres) where there is an external GPO, the cable is 2mm dia solid wire in TPS. That computes to 3.14 sq mm.
From this GPO to the garage (about 12 metres of cable to the distribution board, it's 7/0.9mm building wire. That computes to 4.45 sq mm. I can't find a listing for that size wire, just 7/1.04 which is 5.94 sq mm.
Late edit: I just found the General Cable catalogue on line. The cable to the garage is probably 7/0.85 or 4 sq mm. which is, in my opinion, too small although General rate 4 sq mm at 30A in conduit in air. They rate 4 sq mm TPS at 40A buried in a duct buy I don't know if building wire is higher rated in a buried conduit.
Hi Ron
when looking at cable size there are 3 factors that need to be considered, current draw, voltage drop and short circuit.
Your best bet would be to talk to an electrician and seeing what they are happy for you to do. minimum standard for underground AS/NZ3000:2007 is 500mm no need to go any deeper
Work out what your max load will ever be i.e. a/c and air comp and then how many gpo's you want or have, how many lights and what sort, then the cable size can be worked out - rule of thumb add 10% extra current for safety margin