Yeh mate,one of my series 3's needed a new carby fitted to make it run,should never have sold that horse and cart;). pat
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I can just see the service manager now, " hmmm .... and the steering locked did it?"
Hi and thanks again Iain.
I should have explained the situation in a little more detail.
I was not doing the break-in, my mechanic was and the info was being relayed by numerous phone calls, between a very friendly and helpful LR service manager ( name with held, many thanks Sniegy ), myself and my mechanic.
The removal of the alternator cable from the cranking battery was by far the easiest way to go plus it allowed them to get the RR out of park and such, when needing ot move it.
Ahhhh,
Now it all makes sense. I should have known better shouldn't I?[bigwhistle]
I can see where the bucket brigade of phone descriptions would get a little (or is that a lot) confused. Glad to see sense prevailed and it was sorted with a minimum of confusion.
He's a good man that (name withheld) I must remember to call in on him next time I'm in his part of the world. Haven't seen him since we both owned D2s and were pottering around the Brindabellas. How long ago was that now, hmmm?
Hope your mechanical wizard is able to wrestle the beast into submission.
Cheers,
Iain
i have only a very basic mechanic's knowledge of auto electrics, but if you remove the alternator cable from the power source, and hooked the battery up again and checked the current draw, and the 155amp draw was gone, or still remained, would this not eliminate the alternator as the source of the problem?
and in regards to the steering locking, if the vehicle stopped, most people would put it into P to try to start again. with no battery voltage the transmission should still return to park, just not leave park due to the lockout. if the key was removed from the lock in the attempts to re-start the steering lock could have kicked in, and then re-inserted the key would still turn in the ignition, but may not turn the steering lock off, without the power to recognise the security device in the key.... what i have said may not make sense out loud tho.
Tom.
Okay...maybe I should rephrase that. Not so many major electrical faults...just COPIOUS amounts of electrical faults.
There are more things that can go wrong in the window winder mechanism on a modern Land Rover than can go wrong in an entire Series LR :p
There's a reason LR have a world wide reputation for shoddy reliability...this thread illustrated how bad it can get. Cannot open the boot without the electrics working...yeah...good one LR.
Subasurf, you don’t know the half of it.
After the RR was delivered to the repairers, the first phone call was to find out how to get the RR out of Park.
The second phone call was to let me know the auto electrician had ruled out the starter motor as the problem, and to quote my mechanic’s words “Tell me you don’t need power to be able to open the glove box”, so I told him he didn’t, as long as he didn’t want to get into the glove box.
I asked why he needed to get the glove box open?
He told me that Land Rover apparently start the production line off by putting an alternator on the line and building the RR around it, and he needed to get the wheel lock nut out of the glove box so they could remove the front wheel to get access to the alternator mounts.
I told him he didn’t have to worry about getting power to the glove box because the wheel lock nut was in with the spare wheel, which is under the floor in the rear cargo area, BUT, he did need power to get tailgate open.
You all know the rest of the story.
:eek: My 1999 D2 with 337,000 km's is looking good, amigos and all, the future of 4wd's doesn't look that great, especially if you are in remote areas. Might be ok in Europe, but here? If only we had a locally built product , built for our conditions, without computers. Bob
My 300tdi is sounding even better.