One for the fridgies

Hi learned fridgies, any opinions on products to seal up leaks in car A/C ?
The reason I ask is the Defender 130 has a leak. My local aircon bloke has regassed it with dye after having it on Nitrogen all day and it losing 20PSI and being unable to find the leak. He filled it with dye and some leak guard and it lasted a week or so. When he got it back to fix the leak he still couldn't find it which leads us to believe that it is in the evaporator, a big job to remove and replace. He recommended that I take it to a place in Canberra who specialise in A/C and talk to them, he is understandably reluctant to pull my dash [smilebigeye]
My options at this stage look like :

Find some magic leak sealer that will seal the evaporator in place - Your learned thoughts required here

Pull the dash over a couple of days myself and fit a new evap from the UK (about 140 pounds) and get my local guy to check and regas it.
Go and see what the dealer will do out of warranty, I might be able to talk them into supplying parts but it would still be large labour bill. LR don't supply the evap and heater as seperate parts so I'd get a whole module instead of just the evap.

Regards,
Tote

@20psi loss an electronic detector should pick it up if its in the evap, I'd be reluctant to swap any part without knowing exactly where the leak is.
I'd be going over any O ring joints with good old bubbles and an electronic detector.

The leak additives only work when the loss is around 20% of charge over about three months IIRC, so only for really small leaks and you have to be really careful as they crystallize in the presence of moisture, this is their mode of operation so the system has to be nice and dry, e.g. I've seen blocked capillary tubes in small commercial systems when used without changing the drier.

As FWIW Electrolux ok Super Seal ACR for warranty use.
Talking to one of their engineers, it was tested it for 18 months (when they still had the factory at Orange) and had no downsides except for a 2% perfoemance loss.
A tech bulletin was issued mandating its use in any suspected evap or hot gas line (door frame) leaks.

Maybe message 460cixy?
Matt would know who to trust around town to look at it.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by rick130

@20psi loss an electronic detector should pick it up if its in the evap, I'd be reluctant to swap any part without knowing exactly where the leak is.
I'd be going over any O ring joints with good old bubbles and an electronic detector.

The leak additives only work when the loss is around 20% of charge over about three months IIRC, so only for really small leaks and you have to be really careful as they crystallize in the presence of moisture, this is their mode of operation so the system has to be nice and dry, e.g. I've seen blocked capillary tubes in small commercial systems when used without changing the drier.

As FWIW Electrolux ok Super Seal ACR for warranty use.
Talking to one of their engineers, it was tested it for 18 months (when they still had the factory at Orange) and had no downsides except for a 2% perfoemance loss.
A tech bulletin was issued mandating its use in any suspected evap or hot gas line (door frame) leaks.

Maybe message 460cixy?
Matt would know who to trust around town to look at it.

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I didn't reply because it was Deafener related but I'd let Rick or Paul work on my vehicle without hesitation & I've never met either of them ,so their advice is worth considering.

AFAIK they could be a couple of Flash Harrys (Spivs) with toothbrush Mos but I doubt that very much.


Sorry lads. It was a joke.[bigrolf]

I'm doing a "Rick", skiving off at a café. Bloody hard to drink coffee through a mask. [bigsad]
Attachment 170221

Quote:

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Originally Posted by V8Ian

I'm doing a "Rick", skiving off at a café. Bloody hard to drink coffee through a mask. [bigsad]
Attachment 170221

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Noice!

You need to wander over the border, we dropped the mask requirement on Monday night. [emoji6]

Quote:

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Originally Posted by rick130

@20psi loss an electronic detector should pick it up if its in the evap, I'd be reluctant to swap any part without knowing exactly where the leak is.
I'd be going over any O ring joints with good old bubbles and an electronic detector.

The leak additives only work when the loss is around 20% of charge over about three months IIRC, so only for really small leaks and you have to be really careful as they crystallize in the presence of moisture, this is their mode of operation so the system has to be nice and dry, e.g. I've seen blocked capillary tubes in small commercial systems when used without changing the drier.

As FWIW Electrolux ok Super Seal ACR for warranty use.
Talking to one of their engineers, it was tested it for 18 months (when they still had the factory at Orange) and had no downsides except for a 2% perfoemance loss.
A tech bulletin was issued mandating its use in any suspected evap or hot gas line (door frame) leaks.

Maybe message 460cixy?
Matt would know who to trust around town to look at it.

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Getting to those o rings looks simple enough...... [bigsad]

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...14/04/1229.jpg

Regards,
Tote

Tried ALL those "magic" remedies! My old D1 is on its 3rd evaporator! Some of those original evaporators were pieces of ****e. The only way is to bite the bullet and removed the dash! It is unlikely to be any "O" ring or any other type of connection.

[QUOTE=Tote;3076393]Getting to those o rings looks simple enough...... [bigsad]

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...14/04/1229.jpg

Regards,
Tote

But Jaysuz doesn't everything else look difficult!


I see you took my advice re a 1Kg of C4 Plastic (OOPS. that was some other geezer wasn't it?) still, the effect was the same.[biggrin]

Quote:

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V8Ian I'm doing a "Rick", skiving off at a café. Bloody hard to drink coffee through a mask.

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I suppose what you really need then is one of those Irish Masks with a lot of 3/8" holes in them & use a straw..


Sorry Spudfan[bigsad]

[QUOTE=V8Ian;3076368]I'm doing a "Rick", skiving off at a café. Bloody hard to drink coffee through a mask. [bigsad]
Attachment 170221

Yer know, you really are going to need to buy a new Driver's seat, the white one in the foreground you are sitting in is going to play merry hell with your spine, down the track.

:Rolling:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Old Farang

Tried ALL those "magic" remedies! My old D1 is on its 3rd evaporator! Some of those original evaporators were pieces of ****e. The only way is to bite the bullet and removed the dash! It is unlikely to be any "O" ring or any other type of connection.

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Either way, you need to pinpoint the source I'd the leak otherwise it becomes an expensive guessing game.