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Thread: One for the fridgies

  1. #1281
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    [QUOTE=4bee;3076470]
    Quote Originally Posted by V8Ian View Post
    I'm doing a "Rick", skiving off at a café. Bloody hard to drink coffee through a mask.
    Attachment 170221

    Yer know, you really are going to need to buy a new Driver's seat, the white one in the foreground you are sitting in is going to play merry hell with your spine, down the track.

    One for the fridgies
    If you only knew how big Ian is, those other people must be bloody giants!

  2. #1282
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    [QUOTE=rick130;3076476]
    Quote Originally Posted by 4bee View Post

    One for the fridgies
    If you only knew how big Ian is, those other people must be bloody giants!


    BIG!!! Kidding roight? He looks to be less than a Metre in height so I am amazed he could even reach the Pedals let alone push the buggers in.



  3. #1283
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    Quote Originally Posted by rick130 View Post
    Either way, you need to pinpoint the source I'd the leak otherwise it becomes an expensive guessing game.
    Yes, absolutely! But there is no way that you can see a dye leak, or even get an electronic sniffer anywhere near the evap, without removing the dash.

  4. #1284
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    A decent electronic detector should get writhin the ballpark though. I'd be going under the dash and in the vents before stripping it.
    20psi drop, and I'm guessing they're only using about 125-150psi? is a reasonable leak with a system that has bugger all volume.
    I'm saying that knowing how bloody hard it is the find leaks, I was struggling to pinpoint a leak in a plant room with a $4000 detector, (the absolute best you can buy, you programme the refrigerant and it reads in ppm) the other morning.

  5. #1285
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    I'll have a look at mine on the weekend and see what it looks like in comparison. It's looking like a tear down is on the cards when I get a chance......

    Regards,
    Tote
    Go home, your igloo is on fire....
    2014 Chile Red L494 RRS Autobiography Supercharged
    MY2016 Aintree Green Defender 130 Cab Chassis
    1957 Series 1 107 ute - In pieces
    1974 F250 Highboy - Very rusty project

    Assorted Falcons and Jeeps.....

  6. #1286
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    Quote Originally Posted by rick130 View Post
    A decent electronic detector should get writhin the ballpark though. I'd be going under the dash and in the vents before stripping it.
    20psi drop, and I'm guessing they're only using about 125-150psi? is a reasonable leak with a system that has bugger all volume.
    I'm saying that knowing how bloody hard it is the find leaks, I was struggling to pinpoint a leak in a plant room with a $4000 detector, (the absolute best you can buy, you programme the refrigerant and it reads in ppm) the other morning.
    They run about 240 high and 40 psi low. (hot) The OP does not say from what pressure it lost 20 psi, but as you mentioned there is not a big charge in them, well less than 1 kg usually. It also appears that it also took around one week to lose that.

  7. #1287
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    Quote Originally Posted by Old Farang View Post
    They run about 240 high and 40 psi low. (hot) The OP does not say from what pressure it lost 20 psi, but as you mentioned there is not a big charge in them, well less than 1 kg usually. It also appears that it also took around one week to lose that.
    My reading was it lost 20psi over either 12 or 24 hours (day)
    And you only pressure test at what the evap and comp (and seal) will take, generally that's a lot lower pressure than the high side will see.

  8. #1288
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    The full charge with the dye took about a week to lose enough that the compressor no longer cut in. I'm not sure what pressure he had the nitrogen at but it took most of the day he had it in the shop to drop 20 pounds while he was spraying soapy water around to try and find the leak.

    Regards,
    Tote
    Go home, your igloo is on fire....
    2014 Chile Red L494 RRS Autobiography Supercharged
    MY2016 Aintree Green Defender 130 Cab Chassis
    1957 Series 1 107 ute - In pieces
    1974 F250 Highboy - Very rusty project

    Assorted Falcons and Jeeps.....

  9. #1289
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    All that I will add is that if you have to pull the dash out make absolutely sure to replace every item that has anything to do with the air con!
    Also, take a close look at the heater matrix!

  10. #1290
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    Quote Originally Posted by rick130 View Post
    My reading was it lost 20psi over either 12 or 24 hours (day)
    And you only pressure test at what the evap and comp (and seal) will take, generally that's a lot lower pressure than the high side will see.


    Good point Rick. Have you ever seen an evap. coil on the way to being straightened out horizontally or a bulging ready to burst alum evap?



    Me neither, but I have seen an image of same, some years back.

    It did have one of those "unprotected/non diaphragm" Cylinder valves though. If it leaks past that & no-one notices it, the pressure can easily = Nitrogen Drum pressure & on a warm day.........................................BOOM or Sproinggggg! Thought the hose would have gone first though.


    If you have access to a swimming pool, just dunk the whole vehicle in it & bubble test that way. Easy peasy.


    Don't try this at home children without adult supervision.

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