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The inline fuse in this fridge is a spade item inside the fridge but the fridge case is a pain to open. It took me a while to figure it out as it has hidden screws. There is a hole cut in the case to take a 3AG panel mount fuseholder. I might fit one.
I have some in my stock of electronic components that I'll probably never use for anything else.
Actually, the ones I have are very old Belling-Lee items and don't protrude very much so are less likely to be damaged.
Attachment 193230
A mate of mine had a later model Engel. He had a genuine proper (like trained, certified and everything) auto spark cut the cig plug off and put an Anderson on. In a newer Engel there is a fuse in the cig plug. So he removed the fuse and wired the Anderson backwards. That turned the pcb and input switching relay into a fuse and require some considerable rework. My Engel (which is an early A series I inherited from my grandfather) has a circuit breaker. I still put a fuse in the lead.
I fully support the addition of another fuse holder on the chassis as they walk among us.
I’ll rewire it for an Anderson PowerPole. I have a dual PowerPole panel mounting socket on order from evilbay.
Back to real refrigeration,came across this yesterday,lots of cold in all the wrong places...
It is actually at a site we have been going to for over 20yrs.
Yes the gardener needs to get onto the weeds.
https://www1.picturepush.com/photo/a.../16819241.jpeg
Floodback?
Yes lots.Quote:
Originally Posted by BradC
Defrost heater faulty,breaker tripped so none were working.
Those freezer compressors are around 25yrs old,run all day every day,there is two of them,four evaps for one huge room.Two separate systems.
No issues with them over the years,great quality.Set up properly,serviced properly,like anything mechanical look after it and it will look after you,most of the time.
Room runs at -22 degrees,with forklifts in and out all day,so they do some work.
Advice sought from the erudite fridgies...................
F&P N395B upside down fridge, noticed the ice starting to melt in the freezer, unplugged fridge then reconnected, all quiet.
Fridge totally dead, nothing happening when turning the (newish) timer. fresh dead mouse between where the wires emanate from under a plastic plate that the mains cord enters and the clip on box on the side of the motor / compressor that covers a little cylindrical thing and a little black box thing that have wires connected. [biggrin].
Coincidence? If not is there some way of diagnosing and resetting?
thanks, DL
No wires chewed through anywhere?Quote:
Originally Posted by 350RRC
The cylindrical thing is a compressor run cap.Compressor stone cold?
Light on inside,so power will be getting into cabinet?
Does it have a cold plate in the rear refrig section?
If so the thermostat is often the problem,particularly in cold weather.Give it a sharp hit,on the knob, with the handle of a screw driver as an example,sometimes that is enough to kick start it,then you will know what the problem is.
Turning the timer no luck?They usually get stuck on defrost when they fail.If it is new should be fine anyway.
Fan not going in freezer section?This points to defrost timer or thermostat,as long as power is getting into cabinet.
Good luck.
Thanks, much appreciated, definitely the thermostat.Quote:
Originally Posted by scarry
David L
OK............
Fridge has been running faultlessly since the new thermostat was installed. (thanks again Scarry!)
One thing with buying parts online: Search for the part by naming the fridge make and model followed by the part name, look beyond the first page of vendors (the ones paying big bucks for top billing).
The genuine timer I got a couple of years ago was $28 compared with some prices around $200, the recent thermostat was $32 compared with many other prices around $120 for the exact same thing..
In both cases the vendors were Oz warehouses that you could talk to on the phone, both would happily post, both only showed up online under an ebay banner.
cheers, DL
