yeah they are the ones im talking about
these
10 x POLY TAPE CONNECTOR JOINER CLAMP 12MM 40MM ELECTRIC FENCE ENERGISER WIRE | eBay
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yeah they are the ones im talking about
these
10 x POLY TAPE CONNECTOR JOINER CLAMP 12MM 40MM ELECTRIC FENCE ENERGISER WIRE | eBay
off topic but has anyone tried solar electric fence unit?
For a long time.
We used to use the biggest Daken units they had, running km upon km of multistrand fencing.
Worked really well, just had to check the water periodically in the storage battery.
All the internal fencing on the property we managed used electric fencing, and as the cattle were rotationally grazed (ie. lots of small paddocks) there were lots of fences that I had to keep up with.
The smaller (eg. 2km units) used to use a ni-cad which worked fine.
We'd use them on creek/river crossings.
Horses get to know what a hot tape is really quickly, and all of ours have been that well behaved that we can just run a tape to cut a yard or paddock up and they assume it's live, they won't go and try it.
Running cattle, there was always at least one that would let you know when the fence was down, and apparently goats are worse.
A good goat fence energiser sends an irregular pulse as the buggers time it on a normal fence and know when to push through.
Lou, I forgot to mention that we like the really wide tape for horses.
They can see it ;)
Gallagher Permanent Electric Fencing Insulators
Hi Lou,
I would not muck about with Ebay. Have a look at the above link you will find all the information you need. Go to a reputable rural supply company they will have all the range and information you need. The Gallager stuff is great. If you dont want your horses on barb wire, just run tape or plain wire around the inside connected on your posts. You can get these brackets which connect to wooden or steel posts that run about 8-10 inches inside the post the that the tape or wire passes through. If you check out their range you will wee the proper cable to run underground and the proper locking bolt to join your wires. Do it once with the good gear and you will have it for ever.
My 2 cents worth :)
Cheers
Sorry Lou my mistake, thought you were doing the lot.
As for the lightning protection gizmo, might be of limited use for a small inductive belt to the fence but in the real world if your fence is hit by lightning nothing will save it and your energizer from a zillion volts. All that will be left is a black smear. :eek:
You'll find that animals can be pretty clever in checking out whether a fence is on or not. One of my sisters mares backs up to the tape and gently brushes it with her bum, no zap and sticks her head through into the hay shed.:p
If you can afford it use porcelain insulators, they're heaps better than plastic.
Deano :)
Sure you can, I use fencing wire with ag poly pipe for preference as tape has a higher resistance than fence wire and it is easier to attach whatever you run on both sides of the gateway.
I also run the cheap garden poly pipe and then bend the ends back on themselves leaving a hot wire tail to connections and if im feeling like doing it properly I tape the ends of the pipes shut.
I used to do it right with poly pipe and high volt insulated fence cable but got caught short adding a gate one day and just went with poly and fence wire since then.
I now have 15 or so gateways done like this both at home and on my other place with zero loss of voltage on my fences which all run at around 8 Kva in wet or dry weather much to the disgust of my sneaky sheep.
Remember that there are different qualities of electric tape and as a rule I dont use actual tape to run "Hot" because of the voltage drops.
Geeze I love my missus lol
She has piccies!
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...2012/12/63.jpg
No good using conduit as its hard and wont withstand heavy traffic eventually fracturing and letting moisture in.
Plus its a bugger to add 90 degree bends etc.
Poly pipe works fine, the 1/2 inch stuff is cheap and cheerful.
My thoughts on the small hobby solar energisers are not fit to publish in a family forum but the larger units are great when set up and maintained properly.
I see that nobody has brought up the subject of Earth's though..........
Very important to have good earths and depending on the length of your hot wire you will need multiple earths.
My main earth off the unit is the old Gal pipe system which criss crosses my place but on the other turnout block I have a main earth spike in a nice moist area and then I run a connection to a fence strand with connectors that pretty much runs through 90% of my fences with occasional connections to a fence star picket so I actually have 15 or so earth connections as part of my fencing system.
I have 2 paddocks where Sheep who have little respect for fencing are taught respect by the simple virtue of big zappings if they try the fence and this is achieved by running one earth and one hot as part of the 6 strand fence so if they push through or try to push through they are connecting an earth wire and a hot via the part they are sticking through the fence, the connection is good enough to bypass the protection the wool normally gives them and results in a loud "Crack" and retreating sheeples.
I also use Porcelain insulators where possible and outriggers close to the ground with a standoff hot wire which will hit their legs before they can stick a nose through the wire.
Understandably this makes them nervous and respectful of ANY fence but the downside is that all my fencelines have to be sprayed because the grass grows freely under the hot wires which tends to short them and can be a fire hazard if left unchecked.
So as a rule my ringlok mesh is part of the earth system as is every alternating fence wire and these earth feeds are also grounded via start pickets at the ends of the run.
+ tive and - tive well laid out = Zappy zappy :-)
Tony