If you have a multimeter handy, with it on ohms you should get continuity between the 2 "F" terminals and none to the winch frame. The "A" terminal will be the only terminal with continuity to the frame.
hi
tried a new solinoid, same result.
pulled winch off and pulled out motor all looks good and clean except for groves in parts of themotor.
have attached a picture see what you think. I'm guessing it shouldn't look like that
Those grooves in the iron are for balancing, looks okay. When you reassemble the motor, just make sure the brushes are free to run on the commutator, the copper part of the armature, and test it (the assembled motor) with a meter on ohms as described earlier. Then of course test it as shown on the clip, easy to do with 3 jumper leads.
With the motor assembled, if you put your meter on ohms, on the lower range if it isn't autoranging, you can test it as follows; F1 to F2 should read from about 1 to 10 ohms or similar ( only guessing here at actual readings). But no F terminal will read to the motor body even on the highest scale. Similarly for the armature, the A terminal will read 1 to 10ish to the motor frame but not to the F terminals.
The best test then is with the jumper leads and a battery. If the motor goes it's either the power leads or the solenoid pack, or the connections are wrong. The solenoid pack needs to make two simultaneous connections for the motor to operate.
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