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Thread: Sandblasting - my experience

  1. #1
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    Sandblasting - my experience

    I thought I would share a bit of my experience with at home sandblasting.
    I have a non landrover project that I have stripped the chassi and repainted and now working on the body stripping to bare metal. If it was just paint I had to deal with paint stripper would be quickest.

    I am using one of those siphon sandblasters, which is slow but does a reasonable job.

    This is what I have learned so far:
    1) you want as much CFM as you can get, any thing under 10 and your wasting your time.
    2) you can use ordinary sand BUT it is bad for your health and is very very messy.
    3) The best goggles I have used is a pair of $2.00 swimming goggles. And I have tried several different brands and quality. A pair of nylon pants and jacket with a hood is handy to keep the dust / grit out of your clothing, hair and ears.
    4) the sand gets everywhere. I am doing this in my single car garage, cover up anything you do not want dust/sand to get into with one or two layers of plastic at a minimum.
    5) I am now using a combination of black beauty and ground glass - gives good result and does not create much dust. (bought from a tool shop) I have not been able to source garnet in my area. My local powder coater uses ground metal and thinks it is the best - but he will not sell me any, but happily gave me some ground glass.
    6) get a good dust respirator for your own safety.
    7) You can recycle the sand by sifting it through some mesh.
    8) One draw back from getting sandblasting done by a professional blaster (and this is coming from a professional sandblaster) is the process can create alot of heat and can warp panels ( all is dependant on grit and equipment used). My blaster does not create such heat so not an issue, and the panels I am working on are not all that straight to begin with.
    9) sometimes you will have to attack an area from different angles to get all of the paint / rust off. Generally though blasting straight at the panel works the best.
    10) It is not very effective at removing those areas that are made up of old grease with dirt in them or tar under coating.
    11) to save time in badly rusted spots I may go over it first with a wire brush or sander. Again on the flat sections the air sander would be quicker. I have many areas that the sander is just too big and the wire wheel can not get into so the blaster is best for these spots.

    As mentioned at the begining it is a slow process, but is effective for what I require. A sandblasting pressurised tank may be quicker but I do not want to fork out the required money.

  2. #2
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    Ok here goes

    you want as much CFM as you can get, any thing under 10 and your wasting your time.
    This is what a lot don't understand, But to add to this the ratio of pressure and product will not be 100% to achieve this you need a lot more pressure and volume.

    First thing I will add is this a super cheap parts blaster will not achieve the correct micron profile (Um Profile), Most modern paints require a certain Um to be achieved to promote good paint adhesion, For a car you would want the best adhesion possible as this will provide lasting help to stone chipping and corrosion protection.



    Most of what we do is the sp-10 and sp-5 or in Aus a grade 2.5 and grade 3 blast on rusty car part's, But not panel's that can't have that treatment.



    As for the heat and warping this is correct but you forget its the same process abrasion of the steel, a small amount of heat has to take place and you alter the surface tension of the steel be careful doing both side's
    This is why Soda blasting is a good option but many other steps involved with that but is 100% safe to panel warp and distortion

    In my industry I don't tell people that non approved media is "BAD" for you I explain that it will cause silicosis of the lung and can be very life threatening not only for the user but anyone that comes into contact with the dust, This means the people around you that mean most no need to say more there.
    Crushed Glass that you are using can also lacerate the lung and the lenses in your eyes.
    use only what the professionals use.

    Number 10 Oh yes, Nor are mechanics when you give them a leaky rig.

    Number 11 I will add that steel is porous and wire wheeling can trap corrosion in these pores try a needle scabbler instead.

    Number 5 think about particle size and nozzle size there is proven methods and a ratio for best results (good machinist can make you a custom nozzle)

    After stripping allow no more then 4 hrs max before coating the work area

    by law in most states for us professionals a minimum of double lens safety eye wear is a requirement try a safety shield over the gog's less dust on the face (But I love my Nova 3 aircon'd helmet)

    That is all hope it helps out a little in someway.
    Cheers VM

    Good luck on your project.
    Last edited by VM_Motori; 27th June 2013 at 09:50 PM. Reason: Chores are done!

  3. #3
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    Im really interested in this one. I have a trailer that I am about to refurbish and it needs stripping after a few years of being out in the weather. I am not looking forward to sanding it all.....

  4. #4
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    Edited first post

  5. #5
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    VM,
    Thanks for the post, very helpful.

    You mention that you need to create a certain Um profile for paint adhesion, which I understand. The question is how does soda blasting create the proper profile as it is one of the softest blasting material?
    I have heard more than one spraypainter say they will not paint a vehicle that has been soda blasted, not trusting the soda blasters ability to completley neutalise the soda - any truth in this?
    Do you have any experience with crushed nut shells? I would believe they would create alot of dust.
    There are so many different blast material, and unfortunatley depending where you live is its availablity. I do not care what anyone says - every blasting medium has potential to be harmful to you, so never skimp on your respirators, you have to also consider the material that is being removed from the object being blasted.

  6. #6
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    You mention that you need to create a certain Um profile for paint adhesion, which I understand. The question is how does soda blasting create the proper profile as it is one of the softest blasting material?
    Chemical etching is one of many ways as posted in my previous entry many steps involved but nothing hard.

    I have heard more than one spraypainter say they will not paint a vehicle that has been soda blasted, not trusting the soda blasters ability to completley neutalise the soda - any truth in this?
    For us no not one bit of truth but yes if not prep'd correctly then YES you will have problems. pH issues

    Do you have any experience with crushed nut shells? I would believe they would create alot of dust.
    Cost of the product and machine required to use this media would scare you. It's a mil spec product and as soft as soda,

    Plastic beads at the right pressure will last along time with sieving if not indefinitely when used correctly only comes in 115kg drum but cost's as much as Julia G spends

    There are so many different blast material, and unfortunatley depending where you live is its availablity.
    Pay freight I will sell you approved media.

    I do not care what anyone says - every blasting medium has potential to be harmful to you, so never skimp on your respirators, you have to also consider the material that is being removed from the object being blasted.
    I have MSDS and TDS data sheets that say otherwise.

    Better option would be a forced fed helmet or mask rather then a respirator, In Qld it is illegal not to use a helmet.

    Cheers
    VM
    Last edited by VM_Motori; 28th June 2013 at 11:22 AM. Reason: updates time was short

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