Paper Filters are rubbish.

I remember a few years ago I was camping at Mt Elizabeth Station on the GRR and a bloke in a D2 was camped next to me.
He wandered over with an absolutely clogged paper filter in his hand wondering where he could buy another one.
He wasn't very pleased when I told him that maybe the nearest was Broome and most probably Perth.
I was amazed that someone would start the GRR without a spare filter. So one more vote for maintenance.

I have found that a combination of Unifilter internal sock prefilter at the snorkel head changed every three days or when performance drops keeps the main filter clean, so clean in fact that my main filter was still clean at the end of an 18KK trip which included the GRR, Plenty, Tanami etc.
So I think Unifilters filter well if properly oiled and if used as a prefilter do not clog the MAF. ( That was in a RRC 3.9). I only used the prefilter on dirt roads.
But as an only filter I only use paper, although on carbies a Unifilter is IMHO good, with the caveat oiled thoroughly with the correct tacky Unifilter oil. BTW I also had one fitted to a Nissan Patrol GQ in Thailand and it disintegrated in 3 months from the sulphur in the diesel fumes in Bangkok.
I once bought a K&N, but after reading the tests done in the USA I quickly on sold it.
Regards Philip A

One of the worst designed airboxes in my opinion is the Td5 defender and Disco. I regularly have to use rubber grease around the sealing surface to ensure a decent seal after pulling the old one and seeing the leakage.

Dusting a td5 isn't as easy as it sounds, the oil misted intercooler also traps a fair bit of grit before it gets to the inlet manifold, where again it is adhered to the slop from the EGR valve...

IME dusting a Td5 is the result of a LONG time of poor maintenance, not so much a few hundred km of dirt roads with a clogged/ leaking filter element. Almost every td5 I service requires a MAF clean due to dust and oil mist from the breather system, and YES the crankcase fumes DO travel upstream after the engine is switched off, and will leave a residue in the MAF ready to attract the next lot of dust entering the airbox....at least this appears to be the case IME.

Inspecting the turbo inlet housing is even more an indicator, I have seen some amazing abrading done to the compressor vanes over the years from dust ingress :o

JC

How does a donaldson compare to the unifilter for prefiltering when travelling inland?

Like Justin I use rubber grease on the lips of the TD5 Defender airfilter
This enables me to see if it has been sealing since doing this I have had no issues.
I found that Genuine Land Rover filters seem to be the best the ubiquitous Coopers TD5 filter isn't as good in my opinion (in fact I have a pile of the things I won't use).
The use of a Donaldson cyclone arrangement seems to work quite effectively in the bush.
They probably aren't achieving much on the open road though.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Slunnie

How does a donaldson compare to the unifilter for prefiltering when travelling inland?

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The Donaldson snorkel head (from what I've read, been looking into pre-cleaners) is generally preferable as it spins the dirt out so no need to change filters every day or so.
Another option is the SkyClone which Nugget and Chook use, and they're certainly easier to get answer out of than Donaldson. I E-mailed the bloke Nugget used and within a day he'd sent me back a form to fill out regarding the details of the engine I'd be running it conjunction with (no. cylinders, capacity, turbo/NA, etc) so they could pick a compatible filter head, which is not only as effective as the Donaldson if not more so, but it's also fully compatible on road.
I can PM you the contact info if you want :)

Legend, thanks Muppet!

Slightly off topic here, but I drove a 90 turbo diesel for 6 years.The hand book stated that in an emerency it was possible to immerse the air filter (paper in cannister type similar to tdi) in some warm soapy water to clean it then let it dry naturally or in an airing cupboard.I tried this just to see if it worked and it did.
I also tried it with a 200 tdi filter and it worked also. So if you need a clean 200 tdi air filter and have time to soak wash it and let it dry you will be O.K. If you are doubtful try it with an old cannister/paper tdi type filter. You will see the water get dirty as it is soaked. For obvious reasons make sure it is 100% dry before refitting it.
The old 2.5 turbo diesel had a warning gauge thing fitted to the filter housing to let you know if it needed changed or cleaned.
Anyway something to try if you are bored.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Disco Muppet

The Donaldson snorkel head (from what I've read, been looking into pre-cleaners) is generally preferable as it spins the dirt out so no need to change filters every day or so.
Another option is the SkyClone which Nugget and Chook use, and they're certainly easier to get answer out of than Donaldson. I E-mailed the bloke Nugget used and within a day he'd sent me back a form to fill out regarding the details of the engine I'd be running it conjunction with (no. cylinders, capacity, turbo/NA, etc) so they could pick a compatible filter head, which is not only as effective as the Donaldson if not more so, but it's also fully compatible on road.
I can PM you the contact info if you want :)

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Any chance you could PM me the contact info as well
Cheers Wayne

Well I have always been told never to take K&N style airfilters into dust. And this is by the boys that do the Dakar.

I run ITG filters in my Defenders in town and change over to paper ones when going out back with the dust.

If paper filters are rubbish Then How come all construction and agricultural machines run paper air filters and paper cab filters?