Thread: Advanced Alternator regulators

Looks interesting.
Initially thought it was just another DC-DC charger, but maybe there is more to it.

I'm not 100% sure the graph for charging times is legit though, as it doesn't specify battery type/size. I'm sure if you poke 100A into a normal N70 size lead-acid battery for 90mins things would get interesting.

What type are the batteries you are trying to charge? From memory the D1 has a 100A alternator, so with a decent AGM battery that can take a high charge rate should charge quickly without any fancy gizmo's.

Steve

Originally Posted by steveG

What type are the batteries you are trying to charge?

Steve

Hi Steve, I have standard lead acid but after reading the blurb on the Sterling site it seems they can take a higher charge than AGM?

battery Type: There are four main battery types: all the settings for these 3 battery types are clearly marked on the Advanced Regulator label. There is a lot of conflicting settings for gel and A.G.M. we have shown the setting recommended by Exide ( the major gel manufacturers ) however there are other companies who disagree with this in the U.S.A. so we have a setting for them also, its best to check with your battery supplier.
Battery Type selector ( fig 1 )
1) Conventional lead acid batteries, where you have access to the liquid level to maintain and top up the batteries. These may be charged at a faster rate and as such, the high charge setting may be used. By far the fasted charging batteries and the lowest cost. setting. Open lead acid/ traction batteries are the best type for fast charging
and long life. 14.8 volts max for up to 8 hrs
2) Sealed Lead acid and some A.G.M batteries, not so good for fast charging as cannot replace the water loss associated with fast charging. as such the top voltage is reduced to reduce the water loss , 14.4 volts max 4-6 hrs 3)Gel batteries ( Exide setting ) require , 14.4 volts 10-12 hrs on the charge voltage to charge them , as recommended by Exide .
4) Gel USA settings 14.1
The new software in the digital regulator automatically calculates the battery bank size, charge state, and alternator output, then using the internal DIGITAL processor sets the timing sequence every time you start the engine.

Cheers
Mark

Originally Posted by steveG

What type are the batteries you are trying to charge? From memory the D1 has a 100A alternator, so with a decent AGM battery that can take a high charge rate should charge quickly without any fancy gizmo's.

Steve

From the research I have done in the past it seems that the 100 AMP's from the alternator is greatly reduced by standard regulators and when the voltages rise to meet the alternators output the charge rate drops significantly. So even though the alternator is capable of providing a higher current you rarely get to use it.
The smart regulators charge in 4 stages bulk-Absorption-float-Equalise.
Higher voltages are used in bulk and absortion phases and the final float voltage determined by temperature ensures the battery is charged to capacity.

The other issue for me is I have a dual battery system so when I run down my aux battery the standard regulator see's the fully charged standard battery when they are charged together and the regulator kicks in to limit the charge. I can get around this by disconnecting the starter battery after the engine is running but thats another isolator and I still have the original issue with the current limiting of the standard regulator.
Cheers
Mark

Originally Posted by Discomark

I can get around this by disconnecting the starter battery after the engine is running but thats another isolator and I still have the original issue with the current limiting of the standard regulator.

Hi Mark and that actually won’t get around the problem.

An alternator can not tell if your cranking battery is fully charged or not.

Depending on what type of landy you have, some have Battery Management System ( BMS ) analyses the cranking battery just after you start the motor, by keeping the alternator off for a short period of time.

But once the alternator is charging, there is no way to tell if the cranking battery fully charged.

The BMS just sets the alternators voltage level according to what it gained from the battery test, but it also continues to monitor the current in the cranking battery’s earth lead.

If you have a fully charged cranking battery then yes, the alternator voltages are set to replace the energy used to start the motor, to get the battery back to a fully charged state after starting the motor.

Disconnecting the cranking battery will not increase the charging times or levels and if for some reason your cabling to the auxiliary battery is disconnect, like if the isolator shuts down, it can take as little as just a few seconds and you can stuff your alternator.

Originally Posted by Discomark

From the research I have done in the past it seems that the 100 AMP's from the alternator is greatly reduced by standard regulators and when the voltages rise to meet the alternators output the charge rate drops significantly. So even though the alternator is capable of providing a higher current you rarely get to use it.
The smart regulators charge in 4 stages bulk-Absorption-float-Equalise.
Higher voltages are used in bulk and absortion phases and the final float voltage determined by temperature ensures the battery is charged to capacity.

The other issue for me is I have a dual battery system so when I run down my aux battery the standard regulator see's the fully charged standard battery when they are charged together and the regulator kicks in to limit the charge. I can get around this by disconnecting the starter battery after the engine is running but thats another isolator and I still have the original issue with the current limiting of the standard regulator.
Cheers
Mark

Not sure I agree with your description of what happens when your aux battery is run down.

Here's my understanding - I'm no expert so it may be completely wrong and someone will educate me

Firstly, my understanding of a standard alternator is that it produces constant voltage. It doesn't have the capability to "kick in" and reduce the charge going to the batteries.
With 2 batteries in parallel, they will both see the same alternator voltage, and will charge individually at whatever rate they want to (which basically depends on their internal resistance).
Yes, that charge rate will decrease as each battery charges so a charger that has the ability to increase the applied voltage should be able to charge it more quickly than a constant voltage, as long as it has the current capacity to do so and isn't limiting what the battery would normally draw if just placed on a standard alternator.

What current can that unit handle - I can't see it stated anywhere?

Are you just thinking about using one for the aux battery?

Steve

Originally Posted by steveG

Not sure I agree with your description of what happens when your aux battery is run down.
steve

I believe in this case it is the current rather than the voltage that is getting regulated when the higher voltage of the starter battery is sensed. I have disconnected the fully charged starter battery when the aux has been flat and it certainly seems to charge quicker but I would need to do measure the current going in to prove it I guess.

"The regulator will attempt to maintain a pre-determined charging system voltage level.
When charging system voltage falls below this point, the regulator will increase the field current, thus strengthening the magnetic field, which results in an increase of alternator output.
When charging system voltage raises above this point, the regulator will decrease field current , thus weakening the magnetic field, and results in a decrease of alternator output"






The Sterling ProReg-B Advanced Regulator is for use on alternators rated up to 130 amps. For alternators rated to 400 amps, 12/24 volt systems, the option of a remote display, and an alternator temperature sensor, see the ProReg-D Regulator.

At this stage i'd be happy with a smart regulator for the Aux battery but I need to do more research here as at the moment with the dual battery system I have both batteries and connected together once the vehicle starts.

Hi again Discomark and current is regulated, or more accurately put determined by the voltage level the alternator operates at.

If you have a constant voltage level type alternator operation, you have no current control.

If you have something like what is used in a D4, where the voltage is continually varying, then the current production increases with the voltage increase of the alternator, depending on the loads applied to the alternator.

In your case, if your alternator has a variable voltage output, then as the voltage rises, your auxiliary battery should charge faster, just like how the Sterling works, but as voltage drops, the current being draw by your battery will reduce accordingly.

The first thing you need to do is determine both the operating voltage of your alternator and also monitor it to see if it varies in any way.

So what's the considered opinion on these, Sterling Power Regulator worth the money or not?

I'm about to install an Optima start battery in my TDI Defender (with disco alternator) and will have a Redarc BCDC to look after my Gel Auxilliary batteries.

Nathan