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Thread: Fridgies??? Fixing Domestic AC unit to slab...

  1. #1
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    Fridgies??? Fixing Domestic AC unit to slab...

    We had 2 split system AC units installed today. I laid a slab for them beforehand as the ground was sloping.

    I just noticed the 2 outside units are just sitting on the slab on small strips of rubber. Surely they should be bolted down?

    The manual is a bit vague...
    http://www.mitsubishielectric.com.au...G79A152H03.pdf

  2. #2
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    I always bolt mine down, but I have seen many that aren't, and I don't think that it is mandatory. Reading your instructions it says only when mounted up high.
    Dave.

    I was asked " Is it ignorance or apathy?" I replied "I don't know and I don't care."


    1983 RR gone (wish I kept it)
    1996 TDI ES.
    2003 TD5 HSE
    1987 Isuzu County

  3. #3
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    Anything with cables going to it should be mounted firmly down.

    Sure the pipework should stop it moving,but i have seen many twist around on the pipework,if you know what i mean.

    We always bolt them down,or sometimes use knock ins.

    Also must have corro on the orange circular cable as it has NO UV protection,which is another thing many don't do.

  4. #4
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    I'm no fridgie but it doesn't seem at all vague, nail it down.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    If you don't like trucks, stop buying stuff.
    http://www.aulro.com/afvb/signaturepics/sigpic20865_1.gif

  5. #5
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    Have a look at this page.... is a company page and 1/2 way down a unit that was insecure....

    How Not to install A Air Conditioner wall of Shame


    I can help you install the unit properly... here is some of my previous work...

    I made this aircon myself, true!! You'd never be able to tell hey....
    aircon redneck.jpg


    Here is a unit I installed for someone... I dont think they need to be bolted down..
    aircon install.jpg

    cheers - no need for thanks, Im here to help!
    Digger
    (REMLR 235/MVCA 9) 80" -'49.(RUST), -'50 & '52. (53-parts) 88" -57 s1, -'63 -s2a -GS x 2-"Horrie"-112-769, "Vet"-112-429(-Vietnam-PRE 1ATF '65) ('66, s2a-as UN CIVPOL), Hans '73- s3 109" '56 s1 x2 77- s3 van (gone)& '12- 110

  6. #6
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    I always use Ramset nylon knock ins and stainless mudguard washers, or you can use small masonry anchors and I don't use waffle/vibration pad as we used to in the old days, most all decent modern units don't need it, they are quiet and smooth in operation.

    I don't use corrugated conduit anymore for the cables including the circular 4 core flex, I most always the old style flex conduit as the corro is poor long term with UV exposure too.

    Also make sure the penetrations are sealed internally and externally, stops vermin using the pipework as a highway.
    Most installers don't bother doing that either, unfortunately. Mice love to make a mess inside the head unit, destroying boards and motors with urine and chewing through wires......

  7. #7
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    Geez Digger, there're just no ends to your talents are there?
    If you don't like trucks, stop buying stuff.
    http://www.aulro.com/afvb/signaturepics/sigpic20865_1.gif

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by V8Ian View Post
    Geez Digger, there're just no ends to your talents are there?
    I'd need a bigger radiator and a couple of fans to make one for a big fella like you... (for extra cooling you can put ice cubes in top...another top tip from "Dr Digger"....
    (REMLR 235/MVCA 9) 80" -'49.(RUST), -'50 & '52. (53-parts) 88" -57 s1, -'63 -s2a -GS x 2-"Horrie"-112-769, "Vet"-112-429(-Vietnam-PRE 1ATF '65) ('66, s2a-as UN CIVPOL), Hans '73- s3 109" '56 s1 x2 77- s3 van (gone)& '12- 110

  9. #9
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    Ben,
    I always use a rubber spacer of some type with long tappets/Nylon knockins
    I have lots of large rubber washers (like 80s front shock bushes but double the thickness)
    Stacked waffle pad squares does the same.
    You want the unit off the ground for drainage and to stop rust. I like a clear 30 mm. Most condensors these days are pressed punched and poorly painted.
    Any large units cop dynabolts and strapping depending on location and height.
    I consider it rough not to fix down, it's as bad as only using wall mates only to fix the head to plaster..........
    Dc

  10. #10
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    Thanks for all the replies. I have told the supplier they either need to come back and fix them down or I will do it and deduct my labour from the final payment.

    The installer was a bit of an idiot. Fixed the first indoor unit 0.5" out of square using an 8" plastic level. I needed to get my level and show him it was out, and he then needed to use my level to fix the first one and then fit the 2nd.

    I should also deduct level hire from the final payment

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