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Thread: Rusty Sockets & Spanners

  1. #11
    Join Date
    May 2007
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    Australia
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    Molasses bath. Throw in a mix of feed type molasses and water in a tub. 1 l molasses to 3 or 4 of water. Mix it well and leave the stuff you want rust removed from in it for 2 or more weeks. Wash off with water and maybe scoured. It will be bright and clean. You have to coat or protect it quickly though afterwards. Fantastic for old delicate items like motorbikes, shafts etc. limited only by the size of your vat/tub.

    Cost about .80 c /l
    It does get a little ripe though

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
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    Quote Originally Posted by DeeJay View Post

    Hello DeeJay,

    Thank you for the link to the Coca-Cola rust removal YouTube. Since it is hot outside I have to postpone working on the Land Rover for a while. So I strolled around some of the other clips that came up after the rust removal clip. I found this very helpful and down to earth clip by a bloke called Stumpy Nubs about how to do finger joints on timber boxes. The tool storage system the bloke is building looks pretty sweet too. Now I have 13 or so other woodworking clips to watch.

    Once I see my two dogs come from under the house where it is nice and cool and then see them walking around the yard I will emerge to work on a Land Rover or two.

    [ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ojk8H4JGD5A"]Amazing Homemade Lead Screw Box Joint Jig Machine -Woodworking With Stumpy Nubs #13 - YouTube[/ame]

    Now to look at those other clips.

    Kind Regards
    Lionel

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
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    What method do other people use on the forum to keep track of their sockets once they have outlived their original packing?

    Depending on how much you use them, you could get a thin piece of polystyrene and cut out to suit (won't handle much use or petrol etc), or I have used MDF with some success. A thin piece of MDF glued on after drilling your holes through the main piece works well as a base, or you can use something else eg thin foam rubber.
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  4. #14
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
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    Last time I purchased a new socket set, first thing I did was to pour a mix of resin into the base of the plastic, this prevented it from cracking etc and has lasted well.... Dad has his mounted on pieces of square dowel.... you could use square or round dowel and just drill/glue the pieces into a piece of ply cut to the same dimensions of the case etc.

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
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    Seaforth NSW
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    Cleaning Vinegar

    An alternative to molasses for small items like tools, nuts, bolts, etc with surface rust is cleaning vinegar (essentially that is the chemical acetic acid produced in molasses but without the mess). I use Vin-a-Clean (Riviana Foods - Riviana Coming Soon). It's very cheap, starts out clear and works well. You can watch progress and it's fast. Buy it at the supermarket - not all have it though. WD40 or similar afterwards as rusting will start pretty quick too.

    Socket bars are they way - pop-rivet them into your tool box otherwise they get twisted if somebody treads on them

    Bob

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
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    Quote Originally Posted by bobslandies View Post
    An alternative to molasses for small items like tools, nuts, bolts, etc with surface rust is cleaning vinegar (essentially that is the chemical acetic acid produced in molasses but without the mess). I use Vin-a-Clean (Riviana Foods - Riviana Coming Soon). It's very cheap, starts out clear and works well. You can watch progress and it's fast. Buy it at the supermarket - not all have it though. WD40 or similar afterwards as rusting will start pretty quick too.

    Socket bars are they way - pop-rivet them into your tool box otherwise they get twisted if somebody treads on them

    Bob

    Hello Bob,

    I think I can remember someone writing about the virtues of vinegar before - was it you Bob?

    I did a bit of a clean up of my shed this afternoon and used one of the socket bars. It re-organised a set of deep AF sockets which had started to spread around.

    I think I might make a ply-wood box to fit two rows of socket bars into. The socket bars will be screwed into the bottom of the ply-box. That way the box can be lifted out and taken to the vehicle without having to lug my big main tool box around. Land Rovers, tools and woodwork

    I will get some canvas from the upholster and make some rolls for my spanners since their original vinyl roll gave up the ghost years ago.

    Kind Regards
    Lionel

  7. #17
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Location
    Ballarat
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    Depending on how much you use them, you could get a thin piece of polystyrene and cut out to suit (won't handle much use or petrol etc), or I have used MDF with some success. A thin piece of MDF glued on after drilling your holes through the main piece works well as a base, or you can use something else eg thin foam rubber.


    I went for the foam rubber about 20 years ago and it is still going strong today, so might be a good choice for you . Cheap too.
    Dave

  8. #18
    Join Date
    May 2009
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    I have fibre glassed inside the plastic inserts on some of mine. Strong as. Some of my sets would be over 30 years old, in tin boxes.

    Although I haven't done it myself, I have heard of people filling the rear of the insert with plaster.
    Dave.

    I was asked " Is it ignorance or apathy?" I replied "I don't know and I don't care."


    1983 RR gone (wish I kept it)
    1996 TDI ES.
    2003 TD5 HSE
    1987 Isuzu County

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