Thread: Wheel alignments - a word of warning.

G'day Benji

I gather you are talking RRC here, so from my Range Rover Classic W/shop book they are as follows:

Front Wheel Alignment: 0.046 to 0.094 (1.2 to2.4 mm) TOE OUT
Camber angle unladen: 0 degrees
Caster angle unladen: 3 degrees
Swivel Pin Inclination : 7 degrees-----unladen

UNLADEN= vehicle empty but with water,oil,and 20 litres of fuel in it.

NOTE:that would be with standard 205 x 16 radial tyres on standard Rostyle steel rims.

hope that helps

Those specs should be the same for D1's as they use the RRC chassis and running gear.

cheers

Originally Posted by UncleHo

G'day Benji

I gather you are talking RRC here, so from my Range Rover Classic W/shop book they are as follows:

Front Wheel Alignment: 0.046 to 0.094 (1.2 to2.4 mm) TOE OUT
Camber angle unladen: 0 degrees
Caster angle unladen: 3 degrees
Swivel Pin Inclination : 7 degrees-----unladen

UNLADEN= vehicle empty but with water,oil,and 20 litres of fuel in it.

NOTE:that would be with standard 205 x 16 radial tyres on standard Rostyle steel rims.

hope that helps

Those specs should be the same for D1's as they use the RRC chassis and running gear.

cheers

And in saying this why do some pay for it where anyone with a tape measure and a couple of spanners can have it done in no time

Originally Posted by rangieman

And in saying this why do some pay for it where anyone with a tape measure and a couple of spanners can have it done in no time

Because a lazer has a degree of accuracy. That is like asking why some pay to have their cars spray painted when, with a six inch brush and a couple of litres of house paint it can be done in no time.

Don't forget Benji that all your radius bushes need to be in good condition both front and rear, or it will throw any wheel alignment out, and cause you vehicle to track crabwise a little therefore scrubbing the tyres,I have seen both Holdens and Falcons with this problem,it is easily seen from a following vehicle.

Yes, its purely for accuracy.

My 93 had the least amount of tire wear at .8 mm toe out, so it does differ for every vehicle. But had to literally swear at the bloke for him to do it.

I just had the p38 done by a place that was recomended as knowing 4wds, and they set it to 1mm toe in - since fixed that to 1mm toe out - just a bit peeved that's all.

I might bite the bullet and buy a laser machine myself.



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Originally Posted by V8Ian

Because a lazer has a degree of accuracy. That is like asking why some pay to have their cars spray painted when, with a six inch brush and a couple of litres of house paint it can be done in no time.

Each to their own The cars i have owned in the past ect RRC x3 , Defender x2 and a D1 i have all done with a tape measure with ill effect to tyre wear or handling
Luck maybe but seriously those models only have toe in toe out adjustment it aint rocket science and the wheel does not need to be reinvented for something so simple

As a wheel alignment techie explained to me way back in the last century...

Rear-wheel drive cars have toe IN, as the rolling resistance/drag from being pushed from the back only, tends to force the front wheels backwards and thus compresses and flexes the suspension components. Nett result is:- front wheels pointing pretty well dead-ahead under speed.

Front-wheel drive cars are set toe-OUT, as the 'pulling' of the front wheels flexes everything so that the wheels try to go forward and leave the car behind, and the end result is... Front wheels point dead-ahead. (More or less....)

All-wheel drive cars such as a D1/2 or Rangie are sort-of somewhere between, and I suspect can be more finicky when setting and more easily influenced by tyres, driving techniques, condition of suspension components -as has been mentioned as Very Important - and the price of Tea in China.

Originally Posted by superquag

As a wheel alignment techie explained to me way back in the last century...

Rear-wheel drive cars have toe IN, as the rolling resistance/drag from being pushed from the back only, tends to force the front wheels backwards and thus compresses and flexes the suspension components. Nett result is:- front wheels pointing pretty well dead-ahead under speed.

Front-wheel drive cars are set toe-OUT, as the 'pulling' of the front wheels flexes everything so that the wheels try to go forward and leave the car behind, and the end result is... Front wheels point dead-ahead. (More or less....)

All-wheel drive cars such as a D1/2 or Rangie are sort-of somewhere between, and I suspect can be more finicky when setting and more easily influenced by tyres, driving techniques, condition of suspension components -as has been mentioned as Very Important - and the price of Tea in China.

This maybe so in CV joint driven, independent front suspension vehicles but in a vehicle with a live axle I would be surprised if the axle housing flexes that much..... I have set my toe adjustment for years with around 1 to 2 mm toe out, tyre wear and steering effort has always been good