There is the lazy way.
Buy A compressor and just let the high side tyre down to suit the slope :D
Just don't forget to refill it before you leave;)
There is the lazy way.
Buy A compressor and just let the high side tyre down to suit the slope :D
Just don't forget to refill it before you leave;)
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/trailers-v...d-rebuild.html
Have a look here. I bought these legs on ebay. There's plenty of choice available. On my previous camper I had a pair of Volvo wind up jacks slotted into the corners.
My trailer has wind down stabilisers on each rear corner for when it was used with a camper.
It also had a wind down leg that when into the jocky wheel clamp, that wound down also.
This meant that with a circle bubble on the draw bar, it could be set perfectly level in no time flat.
The problem with using legs that pin in, is what if the pin holes dont line up correctly for the surface? You need to carry shims and a shovel in order to adjust the ground underneath...
weld in 2 mount points for a highlift or simliar jack one on either side of the rear of the trailer
the front is always going to be on a vehicle or a jocky wheel theres point one
One wheel will be on the high side theres point 2
put the jack in the corner on the low side and jack it up. theres point three.
three points done, get clever about it and if you use the right kind of high lift/jack it will stay in the mount and you dont have to worry about where you have to stow that.
Hi,
Brad Fawkes has a simple method on the Campertrailers forum
cheers
That's a good point. It's made me wonder if a cut down Acro Prop could be made to work. Has a pin to roughly set it at height, then you screw down the foot to the exact height. They would have no problem supporting the weight and are easily and cheaply replaced if needed. Either that or a cut down scaffolding leg and foot. Less load bearing ability but within spec for what's needed.
This would also get me a stabilizing foot and leveling foot all in one as I had hoped for with no need to use a jack, shovel or blocks etc. You could even change a tyre with this method.
Any reason this wouldn't work?
Off to the drawing board...
Exactly how level do we need to be? Legs with adjustable pins at 20mm increments over the width of a std trailer (1600 to 1800mm) is going to pe pretty close.... If required, an M16 nut could be welded in the base of the leg, and a corresponding M16 x 50 bolt with 100mm disk welded to its head could be screwed in... I guess being used to a swag in the back of a farm ute I'll sleep anywhere as long as its quiet! :D
The engineer in me thought of a three point system with hydraulic jacks on a common circuit. Lower all three, and the common circuit means that they will find their own level. for the less inclined to physical activity just have a small pump to do the hard work.
Use a 1/2 ton workshop trailer chassis. They already have 2 x rear legs.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...013/12/685.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...013/12/686.jpg