Thread: How to secure a Series LR to a car trailer?

Throw the chain over the axle run it under the diff throw it back over the other side of the axle and run both ends of the chain to the anchor points and tension up with the dogs.

Via the modern day equivalent to smoke signals fromsome place other than the cave where my hat hangs.

The straps would be my preference although the chains are ok if you have the means by which to attach them.

I recently transported an 80" and used one strap around the rear axle and one through the front cross member hole. You can use the axles, just make sure that you don't go over and pinch any brake lines or breathers.

With the ratchet straps you can use them to put a little tension on the strap to take out any slack if you do have to use the chains.

Remember the greatest force is likely to be under brakes so make sure you have either your chains at the back axle stopping the car coming forward or straps with a rating up to the weight of the vehicle in total. When a vehicle is on its wheels there is no friction if they can roll.

If the handbrake works use that and put the transmission into gear with the center diff locked. If you do have a functioning handbrake and transmission in place you can get away with about half the the rating on the tie-downs as said above.

With chains you have to have turnbuckles or dogs to tension them. I have a collection of 2000kg 50mm ratchet straps they are easier to handle than chains and a lot lighter.

I tie it from the front with recovery straps and shackles between the trailer and one of the 4WD's axles, and from the rear I chain it down between the rear axle and the trailer. I then pull it as tight as I can and adjust the chain or I pull the slack out of the rear chain using the trailers winch at the front.

I would always chain it from the rear so it can never roll forward - I've seen this before. The straps I'd put at the front to pull the tension into the rear chain and then strap it also incase the ratchets fail. The ratchets are more than likely to be ok, but I still dont have enough faith in them as a mechanism and particularly the mechanisms that most of them use to attach at either ends.

Cheers all for the suggestions.

I have just realised that there's an obstacle - hire trailers and their inadequate payload. I understand that plant hire businesses hire car trailers with power assisted brakes, however I am not sure how likely it is that I find one in the area (Morisset, NSW) during the Christmas holiday period.

What have you guys done previously with transporting cars, do you all have access trailers with powered brakes? Is being approx. 200 kg over GVM maximum payload an unreasonable risk?

Anyone here with the equipment and the time - I am happy to pay (assuming it doesn't blow out my budget) - just PM me. Travel time approx. 1 hr 40 mins - essentially NW Sydney to just outside of Morisset.

I just whack it on the hire trailer and drive appropriately - not that you would tow very quickly anyway. The big issue is stopping on dirt.

I think the Series are only about 1300kg anyway... well, mine have been utes and a shorty I suppose.

Tie it down like the car carriers do.

Use (2500 kg) ratchet straps over/around the wheels. At least 2 are required, but do not tie diagonal opposite corners as it will skew around under movement.

Have a 3rd safety securing the bum end to stop it coming forward under emergency braking.

Originally Posted by akula

Cheers all for the suggestions.

I have just realised that there's an obstacle - hire trailers and their inadequate payload. I understand that plant hire businesses hire car trailers with power assisted brakes, however I am not sure how likely it is that I find one in the area (Morisset, NSW) during the Christmas holiday period.

What have you guys done previously with transporting cars, do you all have access trailers with powered brakes? Is being approx. 200 kg over GVM maximum payload an unreasonable risk?

Anyone here with the equipment and the time - I am happy to pay (assuming it doesn't blow out my budget) - just PM me. Travel time approx. 1 hr 40 mins - essentially NW Sydney to just outside of Morisset.

Most hire trailers are 2000 kg ATM. The empty trailer is probably around 700 kg which gives you a payload of 1300.

If as some one suggested a series is 1300kg you will be ok.

I have hired many a trailer and would on every occasion be over weight.

Only two weeks ago I had to bring an EL Falcon back from Melb. It would be about 1700Kg, putting me around 400Kg over.

I have even had a D2 on a 2000KG trailer.

It does surprise me in this day and age of litigation that hire companies don't want information as to what you are planning to transport on the trailer and sign a document to the effect.

Only tie down by the WHEELS. Best to use rope.
Go across the front of the wheel with the mid point of the rope round the back & back to the front ,cross over, tie front & back.
If you have a compressor available, let the tiers down a bit first & blow them up after you have tied it down.
Do not tie down to any sprung part ( chassis etc ) it can have dire consequences.


Jeff