RoverLord
check the colour, check the coolant DOUBLE check the coolant level, the bottles discolour over time and look like they have the right level in them.Originally Posted by spudboy
Drive it 20-30K and vis check the coolant in the surge bottle and the oil again.
if it looks good have at it,
i also reccomend checking for leaks and temperature the diff, the portals, the transmission power steering fluid and if fitted the clutch housing PTO.
keep it at 75kph if you dont want to hurt your wallet too badly.
DONT race the 4/5 change, keep the clutch all the way in and do it in 3 distinct motions of the lever on a 1 count.
into neutral, across the gate into gear. you can skip up if your unloaded on the flat and do a 4/6 change but I prefer a 3/5
Use the exhaust brake but generally dont bother once your in the bottom 3 gears.
Dave
"In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."
For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.
Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
TdiautoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)
If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.
Swaggie
SubscriberAfter all that research and investigation, the price went above my limit of $20K. There is another reasonable one there sitting on $12K, (and another one that looks poorly for $7K) but not so game to bid on it as haven't got any feedback on its condition from anyone.
Thanks for all assistance given , especially Judo and DeeJay who took a look at the unit when they visited last week and gave me their impressions.
See what happens in the next round!
Cheers
David
RoverLord
if you're lucky bent linkages that then mean the whole "adjust the whole accelerator linkage setup from scratch, again..." deal, Again....
if you're unlucky it breaks mounting pivots or bolts in which case you replace those and then pretend that you got lucky and do the "adjust the whole accelerator linkage setup from scratch, again..." deal, Again....
Dave
"In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."
For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.
Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
TdiautoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)
If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.
ChatterBox
Damn price jump. Better luck next time I hope!
AT REST
They hold the old bid price on them whilst not listing the current bids,old dealer/auctioneer trick,then just before fall of hammer publish current bid,so unless you have sniping software you are done, I remember a 6x6 troop carrier Landy at first ex-army auction in Brisbane,went for about $12K from memory and turned up in a commercial vehicle dealer's yard at $49,500
TopicToaster
They hold the old bid price on them whilst not listing the current bids,old dealer/auctioneer trick,then just before fall of hammer publish current bid,so unless you have sniping software you are done, I remember a 6x6 troop carrier Landy at first ex-army auction in Brisbane,went for about $12K from memory and turned up in a commercial vehicle dealer's yard at $49,500
I missed out on a Minto rolled Perentie. Bids went a bit crazy.. Uncle Ho, you can't snipe the Grays auction..
If your bid is not counter bid for 15 minutes after the auction finish, you win. If someone bids after auction close, then you have 15 minutes to counter bid back & so on. The Minto auction finished up nearly an hour after 4.30 as some items were still being bid on.
I held the highest bid for a day, I had autobid up to a few hundred under my max & still got outbid by another autobidder. The worry for me being interstate was that the PTO winch might have been incomplete ( & it sold to Qld)
YarnMaster
SupporterAh the old hand throttle, a diggers favorite to put the foot on in the mistaken belief that they can get some more speed out of the vehicle...
RoverLord
depending on how lazy the greaser was who did the throttle setup last it was good for anything from nothing (assuming the throttle setup was done mickey mouse and he didnt have to touch it) to 15 or so kph more (if he was lazy and only set the throttle up on the hand throttle stops without adjusting the back up stops...
the real secret was knowing how to back off the proper throttle stops then remembering to pull the hand throttle out of the end stop on the guide plate.
Dave
"In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."
For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.
Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
TdiautoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)
If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.
Wizard
SubscriberMistaken! I know for a fact a boot on the hand throttle was good for at least 10km/h
[SIGPIC]
2012 LR Defender 90 (BERT) Gone
2012 Husqvarna WR 300
2014 FPV F6 Gone
2005 D3 SE V8
2011 D4 V8
2016 Moto Guzzi California Audace.
Swaggie
Prolonged boot on the handle would also start bending linkages which in turn would give you less speed........
I used to do it until I need to avoid a car pulling out as it's not natural to push the clutch in at the same time you hit the brakes......than try and get the hand throttle off when the engine is screaming at you
I'm sure foot on hand throttle cause a few accidents........
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