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Nothing surprises me these days............:mad:
Somebody on here posted a link to ARB fitting instructions for their bullbars onto a Defender. So how does ARB instruct you to connect the bullbar indicators to existing vehicle indicator wires, bloody scotch locks of all things :eek::censored:
Mick
I've heard of a mechanic who dabs grease on all the grease nipples with his finger to save time and make it look like it's been done. :eek:Quote:
Originally Posted by Blknight.aus
Cheers, Murray
What is the 'correct' way to tap into a wire where you don't have any extra length to play with.Quote:
Originally Posted by Cracka
Are these any good, or are they just another sub standard short cut Posi-Tap
Are there any good alternatives to scotch locks ?
Cheers, Murray
We have a mechanic who refuses to grease machines as part of a service,not his job,operators responsability he says.Quote:
Originally Posted by rijidij
Andrew
I don't like using anything like that. I generally cut the wire, slide on some heat shrink, strip the ends back and solder the whole lot back together. Then heat shrink the joint.Quote:
Originally Posted by rijidij
If its internal to the vehicle I will strip the insulation back without cutting the conductor, solder the new wire to it, then tape it up.
Yes, it takes longer but I always get a solid connection that never comes loose and the electrical integrity doesn't degrade over time like scotch locks or other types of quick connectors.
If going near moisture I spend the extra few cents per connection and get the marine style connectors!
When shrunk down they (should) be hermetically sealed.
Speaking of which, I have to procure some more....
I use a number of different means of joining wires and cables and for non current load connections, like picking up a high beam connection to operate a driving light relay, I will use Scotch locks but I have been doing so for more than 30 years.
I do not recommend novices use them because there is a specific way to fit them and fail to do it right and you can have all sorts of problems.
In the field I like soldering medium to high current joints, but again, unless a person knows what they are doing, they can create problems for themselves when soldering inside a vehicle.
I supply terminal strips, also called screw block terminals and supply different size units for different cable and current sizes.
These too must be fitted properly but if you get it wrong you can easily do it again, BUT these are only suitable for internal junctions.
For all external junctions and terminal connects I either crimp or solder.
When it comes to novices having to fit large terminals to thick cable, unless they have access to the correct crimping tools, I always recommend they solder the terminals to the cable. This way, if they get it wrong, heat the terminal up, remove the cable and start again.
On the boat, solder, silastic over join, then heat shrink.
The Difference Between Wogs & Aussies: TRADIES - YouTube :D ..... sorry
Hi Gofish and that’s like a recent government study that found 91% of all Boat People were coming to ostralya, to get back with the family doctors!Quote:
Originally Posted by gofish
Seriously, while I hate government involvement, there does need to be some form of Trade certification and then, on going validation.
This problem must be costing lives but no one in authority wants to rock the boat.