Thread: Freelander diesel question

Hi Shane,

98/99 and maybe some 2000 diesels were the TD L series - 2 litre, electronic, single OHC but does have a 4 valve head, about 72 kw - nice engine. The TD4 is its replacement and is BMW engine - again 2 litre, electronic, double OHC, 4 valve head and common rail - about 84kw and very nice engine. The TDi is a discovery engine.

Most AWD softroaders have a slightly different diff ratio between the front and rear diffs. In 98/99 model Freelanders the diff which is in the IRD has an excessive difference in the diff ratios - this means that the viscous coupling has to work harder to account for this difference and over time may fail - it locks up causing transmssion windup. This may show up as excessive tyre wear, load on the engine when reversing on steering lock and then ultimately with failure of the IRD and/or rear diff. The problem seems to show up mainly over 100,000Km

The problem was fixed from 2000MY vehicles on. $15,500 seems about right but depends on KM - you can get high mileage to about $12,000 and low milages up to $18-20000.

If you do get a 98/99 model I would be checking the viscous coupling every 5,000 km and at the first sign of a problem changing it - both the IRD and viscous couplings are hellishly expensive from L/R but the Viscous Coupling can be sourced much cheaper elsewhere. New IRD's are no cheaper aftermarket - used prices for both are reasonable. If you buy a high milage model there is a chance these pasts have already failed and later replacements fitted.

However the 98/99 diesel is a great vehicle to drive - try to get an XEDI rather than the DI - it has alloy wheels, Hill descent and traction contol.

Hope this helps

Gazz

Couldn't have put it better myself... [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/biggrin.gif[/img]

The other advantage of the XEDi is the aircon, mind you the Di may have been fitted with it for the Oz market.

FWIW - The early Diesel engine is fairly bomb proof and very reliable. There's a couple of annoying things about it though:

1 - The location of the glow plugs makes it a sod to change all of them.
2 - It has 2x cam belts and changing them is an 8hr job (hence why it's the expensive service).

Mark.

Camel Landy - Got the info from you - as you appreciate I currently have the IRD problem myself - just too lazy to start the job as the car is still running in front wheel drive OK.

I don't know about the glow plugs (mine were done just before I got my car) but Camel Landy does have a point about the cam belts - (mine were well overdue - I found out later) - however -

If you are doing it yourself it is not as hard as the workshop manual makes out - the first belt is the injection pump belt - literally about 45ins work and real easy.

The timing belt is different - but the the workshop talks about unbolting the engine and driveshafts and moving the engine to one side of the engine bay - don't believe it - there is enough room with the engine in place as long as the drivers side engine mounting is removed - needed to move the various pipes anyway to get at the job - no need move the driveshaft - with the drivers side mounting removed the engine can be moved up and down a little to either give clearances at the top or bottom to get at the various bolts. Not technically difficult but a pain in the arse neverthless - a few hours time vs around $1200 at the stealers.

I did the job in January and I am not a mechanic - just a little pondering before starting the job. Wish I new about the IRD issue - forwarned is forarmed.

Belts [b]<span style="color:red">MUST</span> be changed at 80,000km interval so if you are looking at a vehicle maken sure it has been done.

Gazz

The glow plugs are fun!

They're along the front side of the engine and the first 2 (working from left to right) are easy. Plug no.3 is tight as it's right next to the back of the fuel pump but plug no.4 is completely obscured by the pump. The only way of changing this plug is to remove the fuel pump first.

I'd suggest changing the plugs at the same time that you're doing the belts.

IIRC... Some of the earlier diesel engines were actually only fitted with 3x glow plugs anyway.

Mark

Wadda you doing surfin the net instead of seeing the sites of Melbourne - Oh I forgot you are in Melbourne -that explains why you are on the net!!

Gazz

Hi all, I dont own a freelander, but learnt all this on antother thread whilst looking at one for the other half. If you can shane, save a little longer and look for a 2000 plus model, unless you budget for the IRD replacement.

Another quesion, if the engine in the early freelanders was a disco engine, what was done internally to reduce it to 2.0L from 2.5L like in the disco's? Matt

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE</div><div class='quotemain'>Wadda you doing surfin the net instead of seeing the sites of Melbourne - Oh I forgot you are in Melbourne -that explains why you are on the net!!

Gazz[/b][/quote]

Moved into the apartment, bought food & bin down the beach today... 8)

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE</div><div class='quotemain'>Another quesion, if the engine in the early freelanders was a disco engine, what was done internally to reduce it to 2.0L from 2.5L like in the disco's? Matt[/b][/quote]

No, it's not a re-sized Disco lump. It's actually a Perkins engine.

Mark.

Originally posted by camel_landy
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE</div><div class='quotemain'>Wadda you doing surfin the net instead of seeing the sites of Melbourne - Oh I forgot you are in Melbourne -that explains why you are on the net!!

Gazz

Moved into the apartment, bought food & bin down the beach today... 8)

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE</div><div class='quotemain'>Another quesion, if the engine in the early freelanders was a disco engine, what was done internally to reduce it to 2.0L from 2.5L like in the disco's? Matt[/b][/quote]

No, it's not a re-sized Disco lump. It's actually a Perkins engine.

Mark.[/b][/quote]

Thanks Mark, i didnt think it was a disco engine.

How was the beach? Being in melbourne would make you feel at home wouldnt it. :wink: [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/laugh.gif[/img]


Shane, to prevent getting off topic, just do your research mate, buying a pre 2000 model will be fine, just budget for the necessary repairs if things go arse up. You will need a couple of grand, maybe more, to set everything straight. This becomes an option as most post 2000 diesels are well of 20k, if you pay 15500 for the one you are looking at you can replace the IRD etc and still be in front. From what people have been saying they are a top vehicle, i cant wait to get one, budget permitting. Matt