Lucas Peril of doom in Disco 1, 95 model

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Originally posted by sclarke


OK so the steering wheel?? what causes it??

and the Dizzy where is the module and where does one move it to????

Thank you..

bugger as my 1st disco never had this prob nor does the Fender......

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Sorry - don't know what causes the noise with the steering wheel - if you find out - how about letting me know!

The ignition module plugs into the side of the dizzy. It gets hot or if you live in Canberra really cold and fails. I think late series 1 and series 2 V8s have it moved upto the inner guard or behind the front left headlight -next to the coil. I made up a bracket and wiring harness and moved mine there and i have never had problem since. The problem plagued me for many years and I have been through 3 ignition modules. Apparently Ford Lasers have the same problem.

Gazz

the noise in the steering wheel is from the instrument cluster surround....

try moving it gently to see if it makes noise without moving the wheel...

Quote:

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Originally posted by sclarke


and the Dizzy where is the module and where does one move it to .

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The early discos had the Ignition amplifier attached to the side of the dizzy where all the direct heat from the engine attacks it.
Later models have the Ing Amp placed on a little bracket on the right hand side of the radiator on the body panel ( looking from the front of the vehicle.) - basically directly in front of the power steering pump. Here it is nice and snug and warm and away from the swirling engine heat of Hades. [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/smile.gif[/img]

I'll check the ignition module and alkso the column surround for the steering wheel..

The rear door central locking on mine started to open but not lock the week after I got it, and by two weeks it was failing 100% of the time. I bought one of the Jaycar replacement actuators, but the damn thing works in reverse, regardless of how I wire it. EG, unlock central locking, and the locked rear STAYS locked. Lock central locking, and the locked rear UNLOCKS. Unlock central locking and rear door RELOCKS.

My brain was sore that day so I just left it as is for a while, but I do need to get to the bottom of it.

Any ideas? All other actuators work and the only addition has been a motor for the driver's door to give me keyless entry with my new alarm. I would have had the alarm installer do it but he was going to charge me $70 for the part which I knew to be only $10, and the rear door lining and all was already removed. I declined his offer!

Hey... Did you know that there's a cure for AIDS.

It's been given a Lucas part number so now no-one can get it.

Badoom... Tisch! [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/laugh.gif[/img]

Coat please......

MACMAN - had a similar problem with the actuator on the back door stopping to work sometimes - noticed it would often be when battery voltage was a bit low - sussed out that the green steam has a long way to go to the back door - my problem turned out to be poor connections - a little dirt, a little corrosion etc - cleaned them all up and the problem went away.

Now my whole central locking system has been replaced wth the dick smith system - fifth door actuator is in parallel with one of the rear door actuators - works OK

Is your fifth door actuator a master or slave (4 wires vs 2 wires) - should be a slave - the Landrover system works differently to the cheap systems - hence the need to piggy back a cheap actuator on the drivers door actuator to get keyless remote central locking on the early - D1s

If you original LR actuator will actually work but not in the back door - I would be looking at cleaning your connections.

Gazzz

Yeah, the Jaycar one I bought is a slave.

The original one feels like it has a mechanical problem - it opens just fine, but it fails when trying to close. It makes all the right noises, but just kinda bounces instead of pulling back firmly and cleanly. A little "help" (preloading it with what must only be 100 grams) sees it close properly nearly every time. One idea I had was to try to add a "helper" spring to keep the slack in the assembly slightly preloaded towards locking. I have measured the voltage and current as best I can for both the opening and closing phase, and it does change direction. The Jaycar unit seems to ignore the current until it gets 1 phase out of the cycle and then works in reverse (but does it PERFECTLY DAMNIT!).

I'll try brightening up the connections with steel wool and get back to you.

MACMAN- a crude fix if you have a jacar master piggy backed in the front door is to run an cable from it to the jaycar in the rear door - bypassing the Landrover system altogether - or you could even run an cable from where your jaycar master connects the alarm or its wiring to the rear jaycar - will probably work - but a bit crude.

I had my central locking rigged up to a remote like you have but about 8 years ago the landrover system burnt out (not linked to the mods) -every motor - the landrover master in the front door fails and keeps power to the other motors and they all burn out - a real fire risk. I do remeber having similar problems as you do with the rear door working the opposite way around but it was so long ago - I cannot remember what I did - I do know that the jaycar does have problems not having the power to operate the fith door unless it is set up exactly right - even had to graphite the door linkages to make things move easier - but once set up - with good electrical connections it has never failed to work.

Gazz

Hi all,
Well i looked at my Central locking today to see it has been replaced with After market ones...

I onll looked at the drivers front and replaced it and the wiring with a new kit.
Now all i have to do is check each door to see if it is genuine or Aftermarket.

i'll replace them all, but currently only the rear Pass works. so i'll get cracking on it Sunday.

Also i fixed the rear wiper.
It was the multifunction module.
So i bypassed it and connected the switch to the relay direct. Now it has no intermittent, but it works.......
i'm not paying some stupid price to have the multifunction module replaced.

No other faults yet..... touch wood...