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Thread: Hydrofluoric Acid

  1. #21
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    Yes it does clean mag wheels, but it needs to be very dilute. Check the link below and go to the 'wheel cleaning' article.

    http://www.optimumcarcare.com/detailarticles.php?li=12

    Another link
    [ame]http://nycosh.org/wp-content/uploads/2014/09/2993-22.pdf[/ame]
    Last edited by cripesamighty; 17th August 2015 at 08:02 PM. Reason: added link

  2. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by BMKal View Post
    Chemtech Blitz contains Phosphoric Acid, not HF. Very different acids.

    http://www.chemtech.net.au/Blitz%20MSDS.pdf

    Septone ALI BRITE contains Sulphuric Acid and Ammonium Biflouride, which dissociates to produce a solution containing a very low strength (0.98%) Hydroflouric Acid.

    http://www.septone.com.au/msds/ATA1.htm

    Didn't know that Chemtech had changed the formula for CT18 - explains why it doesn't work as well as I remember it. I use CT20 on the D4 - works well and puts a bit of a shine on the paint.

    And yes .................... Jerry's response is appropriate.
    I stand corrected, I wasn't happy writing Blitz, I thought it was CT ?? Shock, or similar. I looked on the CT web site and the only ally cleaner there was Blitz, so I thought I was mistaken. The bloke at QDS told me that the CT and Septone products were the same. Maybe it's a new CT product using the Septone formula. The Septone was about $2 a litre cheaper, both under $15.
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  3. #23
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    I've used this stuff extensively for removing calcium carbonate deposits from glass, works a treat- but don't leave it on for more than 20 sec, it'll burn the glass. It has high affinity for calcium, hence its effect upon bones. Calcium is also present in the nervous system so it goes there too, and hurts (no not me, a not-so-safety-conscious friend).

    PPE should include not only impermeable gloves and clothing, but also eye protection and a respirator with an acid cartridge. Nasty nasty stuff.

  4. #24
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    I recently bought this stuff. It seems to work well.

    WHEELY CLEAN, EASY CLEANING FOR HEAVY BRAKE DUST & GRIME | BOWDEN'S OWN

    I didn't know HF was used in cleaning agents. I had better check anything I have.
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    Quote Originally Posted by V8Ian View Post

    Thanks John, I thought I must have misinterpretated the terminology.
    The bottle does not state the rate of dilution but it obviously is a diluted form. The directions do advise further dilution at a rate of seven to one but for heavily soiled or stained parts a more concentrated mix may be used.
    I think you'll find that 'sensitise' is used in the sense of an immune reaction. As in an allergen.
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  6. #26
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    To reinteriate CraigE and BMKals comments HF acid is a very dangerous chemical and death is highly likely if mishandled.

    There was a case in WA in the late 80's from memory where a lab worker spilt it on himself and died. His employer was prosecuted over the death and the media reports of the proceedings had some particular gruesome moments

    There are much safer chemicals to clean wheels.

    Cheers

    Steve

  7. #27
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    in short, dont use it unless you have to.
    there are other alternatives out there that you can use.
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  8. #28
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    Uswd to be in radiator cleaner sold at sca. Bought 2 tins and then googled what hydrofluoric acid is. Gave them to toxic waste pickup.

  9. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by Strangerover View Post
    I've used this stuff extensively for removing calcium carbonate deposits from glass, works a treat- but don't leave it on for more than 20 sec, it'll burn the glass. It has high affinity for calcium, hence its effect upon bones. Calcium is also present in the nervous system so it goes there too, and hurts (no not me, a not-so-safety-conscious friend).

    PPE should include not only impermeable gloves and clothing, but also eye protection and a respirator with an acid cartridge. Nasty nasty stuff.


    Is it calcium carbonate deposits on glass that you get on shower screens when they won't clean up and you can feel a rough texture on the glass?


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  10. #30
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    Yes, exactly that- hard water stains. There are cutting pastes that do the same job albeit much more slowly, and therefore more controllably; Ettore hard water stain remover is one you might search for.

    Calcium dissolved in your tap water gets left behind when the water evaporates on the glass. A chemical reaction then can begin whereby additional calcium from the glass matrix is drawn out, reacting with carbon dioxide dissolved in the water to form yet more calcium carbonate (otherwise known as limestone, which is why it's so bloody hard to remove). This begins to form the water spots you see. New water sticks to these spots, dries there, and the process continues. Eventually, enough calcium migrates out that even when the deposits are removed, the indentations from the missing calcium are seen as pitting and cause a little optical distortion in the now-familiar raindrop pattern, because the glass is no longer flat. This is called stage 3 glass corrosion by idiots like me unfortunate enough to have to deal with it.
    At this point the glass is best treated with a brick and a good household insurance policy.

    In short, if you get it in time water spotting can be fixed. If not, you can improve it markedly but it'll never be perfect without a full glass polish-and that's a subject for another day.

    P.s. If you go to the trouble of polishing the glass (and it works), apply rain-x or a similar polymer glass protectant so glass corrosion can't occur and any further deposits are easily removed.

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