Mowing season again

last one I did had correct liner height with no shims, measure with a dial indicator. You will need to google the liner height. If needed you can buy steel shims from an IH dealer. You will need a puller of some sort, have used 3/4 threaded rod in a pinch. If they are too tight just run a weld around them like a dry sleeve, when reassembling shiney clean metal is the way to go.
have fun
cheers
blaze

Quote:

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Originally Posted by DoubleChevron

Thanks, yes I'm expecting there to be corrosion and age damage everywhere. Do you bed the liner seals down onto any sort of sealer when you do them? . The liner protrusion feels non existent at the moment to my highly technical "run my thumb nail" over the edge of it test. I'm assuming the old liner Orings are flat as pancakes. The old cars engines I've played with in the past used paper seals under the liners. You set the liner height with varying thicknesses of gasket paper.

seeya,
Shane L.

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metal shims only

Hopefully the liners will just tap out. I remember being told dozens of times "be careful you keep the liners tied down in the motor" when we have had the heads off old Citroen engines. Yeah right. The last time we wanted to remove the liners from a block, we ended up with the block upside down on railway sleepers, beating the living **** out of the bottom of the liners with a lump of redgum using a heavy sledge hammer :o

I just knocked the pistons out... 3 had broken top rings... one was broken in multiple places. You can see a few sleaves have off colour metal 1/2 way down the bores as well as at the very top. I rekcon is all from starting with ether. half the cylinders get a shot of ether when the pistons aren't on there compression stroke, but still manage to fire.

Fun and games right? I'll knock the pre-combustion chambers out and check them for cracking and manually re-lap the valves before I throw it back together (I asked on the IH yahoogroups list and they said to check for cracked pre-combustion chambers).

seeya,
Shane L.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by workingonit

Lot of internet debate about how and when to use ether to start diesel engines ie results in broken rings, bent rods, redlined rpm, lifted heads etc. Seems best avoided unless specified by the manufacturer ie engine is designed for ether start.

I was contemplating ether when trying to get a yanmar working but decided against it after the internet search, persevering with getting the electrics and fuel system working properly instead. A tractor is a very useful machine to have. Good luck.

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Maybe blank shotgun cartridges would do less damage :)

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Field_Marshall

My uncle had a collection of vintage tractors including a Lanz Bulldog and told me that in the real early days farmers would just let them idle all night in preference to trying to start them in the morning.

Some of these these things were single cylinder 6" bore, 10" stroke.

DL

Quote:

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Originally Posted by 350RRC

Maybe blank shotgun cartridges would do less damage :)

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Field_Marshall

My uncle had a collection of vintage tractors including a Lanz Bulldog and told me that in the real early days farmers would just let them idle all night in preference to trying to start them in the morning.

Some of these these things were single cylinder 6" bore, 10" stroke.

DL

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Or when they were started they may be running backwards!
Many have gone through the front of the shed when reverse gear was selected. ;)


Cheers, Mick.

Thanks guys,

Yeah my wifes grandfather had a bulldog parked in his shed for years. It'd be faster to walk than to start one of those things to go into town. They sure do sound amazing.

Anyway, I'm sure people from all over will end up here due to google bots. So here's the manuals. I didn't find anything because I was searching for "International 434". Of course B275, 414, 434, 444 etc. all have the same engine.

International B-275 Diesel Tractor

If the manual doesn't make it easy enough. This guy is really quite good an making instructional videos.

Of course you needed to lookup BD 154 (the engine type ) find this.
rebuild1
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JPKlG6upDQo

rebuild2
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iO-1SrElgYo

seeya,
Shane L.

You know, it would be mighty nice if the guys on that Bseries International yahoogroups could be wrong about something for a change.

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment...1&d=1482536006

You know, I wonder if the shock loading of ether starting is what starts the cracking on face of the pre-combustion chambers. Apparently I can buy a set for about $110 + postage from that Wagga tractor ebay shop.

seeya
Shane L.

valve seats a bit shabby too
cheers
blaze

Quote:

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Originally Posted by bblaze

valve seats a bit shabby too
cheers
blaze

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Yeah I probably should get them ground. I'll spend a couple of hours lapping them and see how they come up. If there within spec, that will be good enough. I'm just lucky there appears to be no cracks anywhere in the head that I can find. Guess I better find where the bearing blue and stuff has gone too. Haven't used it in years,

seeya
Shane L

I mentioned to my grandfather I have an old diesel tractor in bits. "Best lap the injectors while your there" he said. Er, you mean lap the valves :confused: "No, lap the injectors"..... er :confused: ( he's an old time mechanic that has worked on pretty much everything and everything over the years ).

I just googled it ... and I'll be damned:

vincewaldon.com - HOW-TO: Rebuild Diesel IDI Injectors