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Thread: Any one know this 2dr RRC - 350 Chev?

  1. #21
    350RRC's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DoubleChevron View Post
    I'm more surprised these days that people use the 350 chev.... For an existing conversion yeah .... but to do a fresh one, why on earth wouldn't you use an aluminium LS series engine detune the buggery out of it to protect the driveline if you must... but surely the conversion costs would be the same ? after all it's the engineering and compliance of getting the engine in there that would be your main cost.

    seeya
    Shane L.
    The red 2 door that I have had the 350 in it at purchase with a LT 95. An LS is attractive as an option down the track, especially as you can buy them with no engine number.

    I view the iron block version as the lpg equivalent of an Isuzu 4BDIT. Robust and forgiving. Never really worried about the grunt.

    Recently mine dumped all its coolant in a servo after the bottom rad hose split (after coming off the freeway from Melb).

    Taped it up with gaffer tape, started the motor and trickled water in till it was full, drove off with the cap loose, no issues at all. Try doing that with an LS.

    Mine has about 700,000 k's on it now, 99% on gas, and hasn't been touched apart from 3 water pumps and a couple of starter motors ($100 - $120).

    In all the time I've had it NOTHING has broken in the drivetrain. It now has a Ritters Ford C9 auto / LT 95 Tcase conversion behind the 350 which is very strong. The auto was bulletproofed by the guy in Geelong that does a lot of hot rods, for the massive sum of $850.

    I look after it off road, but it does get a bit of a flogging on the bitumen.

    I do have a set of F&R diffs with all Maxi internals that will go in when I get time.

    cheers, DL

  2. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by 350RRC View Post
    The red 2 door that I have had the 350 in it at purchase with a LT 95. An LS is attractive as an option down the track, especially as you can buy them with no engine number.

    I view the iron block version as the lpg equivalent of an Isuzu 4BDIT. Robust and forgiving. Never really worried about the grunt.

    Recently mine dumped all its coolant in a servo after the bottom rad hose split (after coming off the freeway from Melb).

    Taped it up with gaffer tape, started the motor and trickled water in till it was full, drove off with the cap loose, no issues at all. Try doing that with an LS.

    Mine has about 700,000 k's on it now, 99% on gas, and hasn't been touched apart from 3 water pumps and a couple of starter motors ($100 - $120).

    In all the time I've had it NOTHING has broken in the drivetrain. It now has a Ritters Ford C9 auto / LT 95 Tcase conversion behind the 350 which is very strong. The auto was bulletproofed by the guy in Geelong that does a lot of hot rods, for the massive sum of $850.

    I look after it off road, but it does get a bit of a flogging on the bitumen.

    I do have a set of F&R diffs with all Maxi internals that will go in when I get time.

    cheers, DL
    I reckon it's mostly driver. How often do you take 1st/2nd gear low range... 5000rpm launches up hills.... Just watch how little mechanical sympathy just about everyone you know has.

    I've never broken a mechanical component onroad (**** quick, find some wood to touch).... I think the trick seems to be get it rolling first .... then feed the power in ( I think me doing this comes from me never having 2cents to spend on cars ... so I avoid breaking them at all costs ). So no side stepping the clutch with 4000rpm on the old chev to show friends how it'll launch .... Rather get her rolling, then feed the power in. This avoids the sudden shock loading.

    The dumb bit is everyone that knows me thinks I drive like a lunatic .... You can drive quickly and smoothly without mechanically trashing a car though!

    seeya
    Shane L.
    Proper cars--
    '92 Range Rover 3.8V8 ... 5spd manual
    '85 Series II CX2500 GTi Turbo I :burnrubber:
    '63 ID19 x 2 :wheelchair:
    '72 DS21 ie 5spd pallas
    Modern Junk:
    '07 Poogoe 407 HDi 6spd manual :zzz:
    '11 Poogoe RCZ HDI 6spd manual

  3. #23
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    Hi Shane,

    I guess the point is I don't ever have to do 'launches' in low range and a 350 anchor block can deliver draught horses rather than ponies at 3000 rpm compared with a 3.5 or 3.9.

    My POS is a work horse, not a racehorse. Strong, reliable, cheap to run and enjoyable on a lot of levels. I don't have (and don't seek to have) anything to prove.

    I just drive it and it works and if something goes wrong I can fix it .

    cheers, DL

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    10k on the interior is a stretch too.

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