Connecting jumper leads to defender. 175amp Anderson Plugs VS remote battery studs?

I have a duel battery set up on my defender ute with two Anderson plugs (one for each battery) mounted on the inside front of the tray adjacent to the drivers door. I run my fridge off one of them and have used them to jump start plenty of things around the farm from quads, ride ons to other vehicle. I have made up two jumper leads, one with Anderson plugs on both ends as all my equipment have Anderson plugs to aid quick starting. The other has an Anderson plug and crocodile clips at the other end.
All very easy..

Being practical, any plug arrangement where the conductors are covered will be better than a post. If a jumper leads pops off the post there is a possibility that it will create a short circuit & arc causing damage. Not to mention, in haste or in the dark it's easy to connect things backwards. Ever seen a battery blow up? It's not pretty.
That's the principal reason jump start receptacles were added to equipment and why battery covers now need tools to remove.
Use a connector.

Hi folks and sorry but this fanaticism to fit huge cables for jump starting vehicles is not only totally unnecessary, it in most cases, the setup is down and outright dangerous.


I’ll bet good money that those who have setup jump start cabling in their vehicles have not done so safely.


You will have run the cabling, regardless of size, from the cranking battery to an external access point and this cabling has no dead short protect.


ALL CABLING outside the engine bay MUST be protected against a dead short event, and this included cabling intended for emergency jump starts.


If you carryout a jump start properly, you need nothing larger than 6B&S cables, and this can be protected with a 50 auto resetting circuit breaker, and the end of the cabling can be fitted with a 50 amp Anderson plug.


I’m not going to take up space here, but to read how to carryout a jump start properly and SAELY, check this link out.


[url=http://www.aulro.com/afvb/the-verandah/246755-line-auto-electrical-info-4.html][url]

Hi,

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/the-veran...al-info-4.html

Fixed it for you

Cheers

Quote:

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Originally Posted by drivesafe

Hi folks and sorry but this fanaticism to fit huge cables for jump starting vehicles is not only totally unnecessary, it in most cases, the setup is down and outright dangerous.


I’ll bet good money that those who have setup jump start cabling in their vehicles have not done so safely.


You will have run the cabling, regardless of size, from the cranking battery to an external access point and this cabling has no dead short protect.


ALL CABLING outside the engine bay MUST be protected against a dead short event, and this included cabling intended for emergency jump starts.


If you carryout a jump start properly, you need nothing larger than 6B&S cables, and this can be protected with a 50 auto resetting circuit breaker, and the end of the cabling can be fitted with a 50 amp Anderson plug.


I’m not going to take up space here, but to read how to carryout a jump start properly and SAELY, check this link out.


[url=http://www.aulro.com/afvb/the-verandah/246755-line-auto-electrical-info-4.html][url]

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All good points Tim, my experiences around jump starting vehicles is mostly trucks and generators. The vehicles I set up use 2 different Anderson plugs to either give 12 or 24 volts (normally left in 12 volt parallel to charge of the service vehciles alternator). When this system is in 24 volt mode the vehicles alternator cannot help charge the dead batteries on the unit being jumped so relying on high current flow through big cables is the only way to achieve this. I've measured current flow of over 1,400 amps while jump starting big engines.

I hadn't really considered doing it any different way until you posted this, but for normal vehicles it is a great way of doing it for lower cost, less weight and safer use. :)

1000's of mine vehicles and mobile plant with jumper connection points.....most are within the engine bay on on the front bar. Never looked our vehicles are fused, don't reckon they are as the are mounted right next to the battery.

I take Tim's point about safety.

My 110 and various other 12V vehicles have 175 Amp Anderson's mounted adjacent to the battery. In the 110 and Series III this is on the front face of the seat/battery box (behind the passengers legs). All vehicles have mechanical battery master switches which isolate the battery from everything including the Anderson.

If you know anything about Military vehicles almost all larger vehicles have a slave lead receptacle, these are not fused or isolated. One problem is that UK and US vehicles use different interface standards and there are differences in 12V and 24V. The result is that my armoured vehicle club has 3 standards, 6V vehicles use the 120 Amp Anderson, 12V use 175 Amp and 24V use the 350 Amp. The respective slave leads have corresponding Anderson pairs before 1 end, e.g. that way we can slave a US 24V vehicle from a Brit 24V vehicle by joining the slave from each vehicle through the 350 Amp Anderson standard.

Most importantly we can't inadvertently attempt a jump start of a 12V vehicle from a 24V one.

Now what were investigating is how to safely slave the relatively rare 6V (WWII) vehicle from a 12V one without damaging either.

In my voluntary work, our parent organisation is considering totally banning jump starting because of the number of incidents that have occurred as a result of incorrect procedure.

We use jumpstart packs, plus combinations of anderson plugs and alligator grips , but the public get it wrong and blame us. Therefore it is being considered as a non available procedure from us.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by ramblingboy42

.......because of the number of incidents that have occurred as a result of incorrect procedure.
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Hi,
is it possible to expand a bit on some of the causes and effects that occurred?

Cheers

Austastar, just about everything that you can think of.....incorrect polarity causing flashes/burns, incorrect earthing...not all craft are -ve earth, battery explosions, sparks causing fires, electric shock when cranking due high amps and wet environment, high current drains causing shorting/fuse blowing in electrical systems etc
In many cases the leads or packs are taken below after being told how to do correct procedure and we are not in control.

btw we do not go aboard other vessels unless a life or death situation exists or with owners direct permission/request.

Den.