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A simple way to calculate MA when using a vehicle winch is to count the number of lines at the vehicle including the hauling part ie 1 line 1-1 2 lines 2-1 3 lines 3-1 .The extra friction with more blocks probably less than what is gained by less rope on the drum
AM
With a 12,000lb winch Most of us would only need a snatch block to change the direction of the pull or to feed out more line so that there is less left on the drum to facilitate more power from the winch.
It IS nice to know how to get an MA But if you actually needed to boost the pulling power of your winch x2 or even x3 Will your rope, anchor points or even your Bullbar mounts be up to the task ?
This sounds like an easy way to work out MA.
Here’s an easy way to remember all this: Just count the number of lines that get shorter with the movement of the vehicle being pulled, and you’ll have your mechanical advantage.
That is from this article, which from a quick reading seems to have a couple of tips about things that might not be obvious. For example, the way a bow shackle should face. I think we all know it should not be sideways. Anyone who has read Tank's reminders about this will surely have that clear, but there is still the issue of whether the tree protector or the cable hook goes on the pin.
https://expeditionportal.com/winching-without-the-worry/
Fixed the link for you[wink11]Quote:
Originally Posted by vnx205
Winching without the Worry – Expedition Portal
Hook on the bow. If you put the hook on the pin it will slide to one side and then you have a sideways set up. An absolute must not happen.
There is No need to use a shackle to hook up to the tree protector, Just slip the winch hook through the loops of the tree protector. [thumbsupbig]Quote:
but there is still the issue of whether the tree protector or the cable hook goes on the pin.
This way there is one less lump of metal in the mix to fail and become a missile.
Totally and completely wrong, how do you get two strap eyes on the pin, without bunching them up or have one eye sitting on top of the other, the eyes would be pinching on one another and unevenly loaded, your other point, if the hook was liable to slide on the pin then it should be shimmed/packed with washers to stop that happening.Quote:
Originally Posted by cuppabillytea
Christ knows commonsense is in short supply. Why the **** do you think they make BOW SHACKLES for, as over a "D" shackle, it is so that you can fit the wide eyes of straps on the shackle without loading them unevenly or sitting on top of one another and also to take multiple eyes of wire slings, it is so simple, Regards Frank.
Same as cuppabillyteas post above, show me how you can safely get 2 strap eyes on a winch hook without one on top of the other, which will cause one eye to take more of the load than the other and damage the strap eyes, also the winch hook is only to be loaded in the belly of the hook, with 2 strap eyes fitted the end of the hook will be overloaded and how do you get the safety clip[ to work properly, loading a winch hook up like this could make the hook the weakest link, please just use your noggin and think before you act, Regards Frank.Quote:
Originally Posted by trout1105
Frank, you are a rigger with vast experience who's word is gospel as far as I'm concerned, but your average people don't go equiped to the extent that you do. They are not going to shim the pin and the end result will be ugly.Quote:
Originally Posted by Tank
If you were putting the shackle on a pad eye, how would you do it, or for that matter a couple of thimble ends?
I have never used a hook on a vehicle winch cable .A shackle pin being larger is much kinder to the thimble so haver seen the point of a hook .Frank and I have finaly found something to agree on the slings go to the bow[bigsmile1]
AM