If you have a leak just use a suitable urethane and you’ll never suffer again.
The good stuff won’t even need rivets put back in!
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If you have a leak just use a suitable urethane and you’ll never suffer again.
The good stuff won’t even need rivets put back in!
Remember, a Deefer is not a saloon. Leaking seams were regarded as about as important as NVH - they're a rough, tough work vehicle. If you don't like leaks, rattles and dust, buy a Disco instead! [bigrolf]
Sikaflex 221 or 252.
My understanding of the differences between the two type is that the 221 is more flexible, the 252 is used for structural joints, ie. less flexible.
In another lifetime Ian, a mate that did a lot of ally welding did a lot of pre and post heat on castings, sheet a can't recall as we usually bonded and riveted it.Quote:
Originally Posted by V8Ian
FWIW that's how aircraft are assembled too, bonded and riveted.
IMO Sikaflex is the go.
If it was structural I'd use a 3M product, 2218BA.
I used to have several tubes in the freezer but prep was vital.
Etching and lots and lots of methylethylketone.
Unfortunately its carcinogenic.
Nasty stuff MEK, I knew an industrial painter who used to wash his hands, arms and face with it. He wouldn't be told.
Thanks for the replies everyone, interesting and informative. Apologies about my late reply.
How about external vinyl coating? Never seen it in person and don’t think I’d really want to do that but you never know I guess. I’m asking for interests sake really, the sika option sounds the best, i did find a thread where someone mentioned 3M tape on the joins that sounded promising as well.
Don’t short cut.. vinyl lasts about 3 years on a horizontal, pits from contaminants and is a pita to remove.
If you have the problem:
Remove the roof
Repair
Reseal
Refit.
Flexible is the way to go in a Defender.Quote:
Originally Posted by AK83
Mick, you have a real knack of stating the obvious. [bigrolf]
TIG weld the doors shut and fill the seams. [bigwhistle]Quote:
Originally Posted by Tombie