Free Wheeling Hubs

When I put FWH on my S3, I noticed huge differences to just about everything over the original set up.
Steering was much lighter during parking etc,, fuel economy was a significant change as well. Although it wasn’t “tested and catalogued” as such,, but on the usual runs up to the bush from home, I found I wasn’t using anywhere near as much after I put them on. But the whole car also just felt better to drive.

As for failures of drivline components, I’m thinking the same as others here, that because I used 4x4 often (probably every weekend, either on the farm or on trips up the high country, they were used and lubricated we’ll all the time. (??).

Having said all that, the poor old S2a I have now, is not fairing so well I suspect. 😳

So my new FWH arrived in record time.

This will be of little use to anyone here unless they are curious about the difference between Lightweight Axles and regular Series axles . These have 10spline on the diff and 24spline on thew drive flange. Axies were rationalised in the Late 1970's where upon they started using the same as civilian models.


Fitting FreeWheeling Hubs is not just a matter of installing straight out of the box.


Hopefully the pictures will explain the difference better.


Standard drive member with end cap unscrewed, note no circlip groove or bolt on end of axle. ( A 1/4 UNF bolt welded to the end cap (cover) normally holds axle in place.
http://www.goingbush.com/lwt/fwh1.jpg


back side of standard Lightweight drive flange.
http://www.goingbush.com/lwt/fwh2.jpg


back side of out of the box AVM FWH (Bearmach BR1273 ) compare these to above, you can see the relative height from flange face to start of spline is about 8mm further out.
http://www.goingbush.com/lwt/fwh3.jpg


Since there is a great whallop of meat on the flange it occurred to me the best way forward is to remove 6-8mm of material. Not enough to compromise strength. 10 minutes on the Lathe and voila !
http://www.goingbush.com/lwt/fwh4.jpg


I didn't bother replicating the o-ring groove, more to the point I didn't have the right tool and could not be stuffed grinding a piece of tool-steel that I could turn the o-ring groove with. Hylomar to the rescue.
here the before & after comparison, note amount of material removed from mounting flange .
http://www.goingbush.com/lwt/fwh5.jpg


So if thats not clear, here is a picture of an un-modified FWH on my Lightweight hub, I have a UNF bolt screwed into the axle end so I can pull it out all the way, You see the end of the half-shaft is a long way shy of the stop circlip where it needs to be to make full spline engagement.
http://www.goingbush.com/lwt/fwh6.jpg


And here is a picture of my modified FWH , you see the half shaft is nearly all the way home. Much - MUCH better !
http://www.goingbush.com/lwt/fwh7.jpg


Instead of using a stack of washers to locate the half shaft I made some spacers from Black Acetal / Delrin


http://www.goingbush.com/lwt/fwh8.jpg


http://www.goingbush.com/lwt/fwh9.jpg


Looks like shop bought one :)
http://www.goingbush.com/lwt/fwh10.jpg


Now that the drive flange is thinner to be sure my bolt holes are deep enough, I cleaned the crud out and ran a M10x1.25 tap through , not sure why mine has metric threads ??


another picture
http://www.goingbush.com/lwt/fwh11.jpg


and after some road testing !! Job Done !!
http://www.goingbush.com/lwt/fwh12.jpg


(not forgetting to engage them weekly and go for a good blast to keep the front end & Transfer Box well lubricated)

Good job,
very interesting and well done.

Cheers, Mick.

I thought all Series Landrovers had BSF drive flange studs, butthe Lightweight may, of course have been 'special' for the army. Or perhaps more likely, modified in service - do you know whether all four hubs are the same?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by JDNSW

I thought all Series Landrovers had BSF drive flange studs, butthe Lightweight may, of course have been 'special' for the army. Or perhaps more likely, modified in service - do you know whether all four hubs are the same?

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I did not take any notice of the threads when I replaced a rear drive flange but the markings on the bolt heads are the same as the front. Indeed they should be BSF according to the Lightweight forum. Nothing else on the vehicle is metric.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by goingbush

Ive always considered FWH to be a total con job & marketing excersise by aftermarket, the damage done to railkos , diffs , UJ's & propshaft splines far outweigh their usefulness . Damage done by not occasionally locking them and thus providing lubrication to moving parts & the prop shaft spline moving without rotating & thus wearing unevenly, the top half of the diff crown wheel rusting from condensation, etc.

I even considered any perceived Fuel savings to be placebo effect.

However , I now have a series LandRover that is powered 100% by electricity & any efficiency gains can be measured & much more obvious than from an inefficient petrol engine (by comparison)

So I pondered the issue & machined out a flogged set of drive flanges & fitted up front so that there was no spline . DIY FWH if you like, but unlockable) The performance gain is immediate , Less noise , less vibration, & easily 10% more battery range per charge, So I Eat my words, & apologies to those that I spruked my vehement opposition to FWH use in the past.

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Even the ex's GU Patrol was a little smother/less NVH with the hubs unlocked.
With hubs locked you could slightly feel the front drivetrain, a sort of low frequency subtle rumble.
She didn't always notice it, but I'd feel it if I jumped behind the wheel.
She would often use her car to harrow the dressage arena after deep harrowing it with the tractor and so lock the hubs.