Arc Welding UV Radiation

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Originally Posted by Disco-tastic

What's the difference between GP and 16TC?

I have some 6013 GP rods ATM but am looking to try 6011 for AC and 7016 or 7018.

Should I bother with the 6011? Pretty much all of the stuff I will be welding will be prepped - the worst will be mill scale.

Cheers

Dan

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I no welder and don’t know the difference.....my boiler makers and fitters use them all the time, it’s all they request. If it’s mig we use flux cored.....

GP rods (6012/6013) have a higher diffused hydrogen content than 7016/7018/7024. 6011 are the highest in Hydrogen, hence more prone to cracking in some applications.
Golden rule- choose a rod to suit the parent metal that you are joining.
Speak to your steel supplier for welding recommendations.

To break down the numbers on a welding rod, decipher the code like so:

https://www.hongky.com/Data/Sites/1/...-electrode.jpg
Diffused hydrogen content of a rod is affected by atmospheric moisture. So all you chavs running 16tc's (7016) and keeping them in the shed for 15 years are not getting the full benefits of this rod.

https://i.pinimg.com/originals/0f/0f...cb3a437899.jpg

For the record, 100ksi is about 690MPa. So your 350 grade steel is well and truly softer than a 'GP6013' weld metal deposit.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Disco-tastic

What's the difference between GP and 16TC?

I have some 6013 GP rods ATM but am looking to try 6011 for AC and 7016 or 7018.

Should I bother with the 6011? Pretty much all of the stuff I will be welding will be prepped - the worst will be mill scale.

Cheers

Dan

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Weeds has pretty much got the same answer as me mate, an old boilermaker whom taught me years ago swore buy them. He wouldn't use anything else other than the 16tc's. Even my BIL who's a welder can't remember what trade some sort of engineering, swears by them also. Both prep their work before welding, it's honestly just how smooth the weld goes down.
Cheers Jim

Thanks all. What I take from that is the 16TC are 7016 and the GP are 6011 or 6013?

I will do a bit more research and probs grab some of each to try out.

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Originally Posted by Toxic_Avenger

Diffused hydrogen content of a rod is affected by atmospheric moisture. So all you chavs running 16tc's (7016) and keeping them in the shed for 15 years are not getting the full benefits of this rod.

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Yeah you gotta keep them at the right humidity otherwise they go crap, I never buy the big packs of them only 2.5-3kg at a time and keep them in the house.
They have instructions on the back to bring them back to the right moisture content but you need an oven capable of like 400c and bake them for like 4 hours. I hate seeing them on the bottom shelf above a freezing cold concrete floor, their still wrapped but they get cold still.
Cheers Jim

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Originally Posted by LRJim

Yeah you gotta keep them at the right humidity otherwise they go crap, I never buy the big packs of them only 2.5-3kg at a time and keep them in the house.
They have instructions on the back to bring them back to the right moisture content but you need an oven capable of like 400c and bake them for like 4 hours. I hate seeing them on the bottom shelf above a freezing cold concrete floor, their still wrapped but they get cold still.
Cheers Jim

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Lincoln site says 375 degrees for three hours.

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Originally Posted by Bigbjorn

Lincoln site says 375 degrees for three hours.

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Having a look at the austarc box it says
Use from hot box set at 120°c. To recondition most electrodes bake at 300°c for at least 2 hours.
So not as bad as I thought could almost do it at home.
Cheers Jim

I have noticed if they get stuck and warm up 1st, they do weld even better hmmmm. Anyone used them pre heated?

Certain OZ welding standards require rods taken from set Temp...

https://www.keenovens.com/photos/2016/kht500-1.jpg