RoverLord
Servicing the 2a today - one of the first things I do is put it on axle stands and take the wheels off - lot easier to get underneath!
About a month or two ago I got two new back tyres.
Yes, it has happened again! RH rear wheel, could not budge any of the nuts. My rattle gun would not budge them. As it was already on stands, I turned the brake adjusters to lock the wheel. Could not move the nuts, but managed to turn the wheel. In the end I jammed a ramp under the wheel to stop it moving and put six feet of pipe on my breaker bar to get more leverage, and managed to loosen them.
One nut I noted the position it was tightened to, and after loosening it tried to tighten it to the same point using the torque wrench to see just how tight they had been - the maximum setting of the torque wrench, 210Nm got it only about fifteen degrees from where it was.
I tried to phone the people that put it on, to give them a piece of my mind - guess what? I forgot it was Sunday - only an answering machine.
John
JDNSW
1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol
Swaggie
That’s no good John, especially if you were not at home.
The last two sets of tyres if purchased in Brisbane it was a pleasant surprise to see the techs use a tension wrench.
Given the defender is the brides daily drive when I get home from getting new tyres fitted I always loosen the nuts and retention so that the bride can physically undo them (60 something kg leaning on a breaker bar)
ChatterBox
Not good. So how exactly would you change that tyre if you got a puncture in the middle of nowhere?
Super Moderator
That could be somewhat inconvenient, but a stud failure could be catastrophic.Originally Posted by cripesamighty
If you don't like trucks, stop buying stuff.
RoverLord
This is the second time this has happened to me with wheels fitted by tyre places in Dubbo - and no; two different places! The other wheel fitted was correctly torqued - or something like it anyway. (There are no published torque figures for the 9/16" wheel studs as far as I know.)
I've been lucky - last time this happened to me the tyre on the 110 went flat overnight while I was at home - I had to borrow 3/4 drive socket and breaker bar from next door after I broke my 1/2 drive breaker bar (and Sidchrome refused to honour their lifetime warranty, saying it had been abused). My no-name breaker bar withstood the pipe extension a bit better.
John
JDNSW
1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol
Swaggie
If there is no specific torque than I’d instruct them to use the OEM wheel brace.
Wizard
I’ve had similar experience with ridiculously tight oil filters fitted by mechanics on two vehicles. Not even a filter wrench could undo. On more than one occasion I’ve needed to puncture the filter with a big screwdriver to get the required leverage to undo.
I do most oil changes myself, but once a year or so I take my vehicles for a full check by specialists and any major work.
At least a quarter filter turn back myself straight after these services might be good policy from now on!
YarnMaster
SupporterI rattle mine off and on with the Ryobi set on the centre setting. Still allows tightening by hand with the short bar. Get about half a turn. Really saves time when swapping a set of wheels.
RoverLord
Yes, much the same here, with the machine on the minimum setting. Take up about a quarter turn by hand after putting the wheels back on the ground.
John
JDNSW
1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol
Swaggie
I liked the design of the wheel brace in the 2 door rangie I had........
it was hinged in the middle, when doing the nuts up the handle was only 1/2 length, when undoing the nuts the handle folded out to double the length.......good idea I reckon
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