Hi
Certainly not an urgent thing..dam is not likely to overflow anytime soon - but it is a good time to fix it.
The collar is a vertical concrete cylinder on a solid base - when the dam is 'full' it flows into the collar and out to the road culvert via a pipe in the collar base that goes through the dam embankment. I became aware of it leaking as the dam level dropped - water was below the top but internally it was wet and a small trickle was going out to the road. It will only get worse.
The question is what is a good way to water proof the concrete collar.
I am thinking that there must be a product that I can apply to the inside of the collar( following suitable prep) that will water proof it.
Any one done a similar job or know of a good product?
ta
I dont know the product name but my dad has a 55,000 gallon water tank that had a leak and he used a product that he applied from the inside and also externally on a weep that he had.
MY08 TDV6 SE D3- permagrin ooh yeah
2004 Jayco Freedom tin tent
1998 Triumph Daytona T595
1974 VW Kombi bus
1958 Holden FC special sedan
Google "liquid rubber". They have a distributor in Melbourne.
Silasec mixed with cement and sets underwater
Decided to give Silisec a try.
Will also try it externally on a weep on a concrete water tank.
Thks for the tips.
Will update when done.
More to do on the dam overflow system:
Collar leak - done pending road test.
Repair 45 deg join - pending
The pvc 45 deg elbow failed at last overflow due to tree root getting in I assume via a long term small leak. Then the roots eventually blocked the angle and it failed last December.
So how to repair it?
I thought I could find a flexible coupling of some kind but so far no luck.
The horizontal pipe (on left, the one with the tape on top) is about 20mm out of shape from load - just to make it more fun.
Can anyone suggest a way to repair this elbow?
pipes.JPG
thanks
I have just finished repairing an old corrogated iron 5,000l tank that had been previously cemented inside that was full of cracks and was leaking badly.
All i used was a bucket, a 4inch paintbrush and cement slurry.
The method i used was to dampen the old concrete inside the and then apply the cement slurry with the paintbrush.
I let this dry overnight and repeated the procedure the next day.
I waited until the next day and filled the tank with bore water and there are NO leaks whatsoever now.
The entire job cost me 3x bags of cement and a paintbrush
You only get one shot at life, Aim well
2004 D2 "S" V8 auto, with a few Mods gone
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4.6m Quintrex boat
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The worst leak was the lighter colored line - that has had the prescribed 3 coats.
The darker line above is 2 coat IIRC.
I deliberately only did part of the cracks to see if there was any real benefit.
Well - very pleasantly surprised. I really didnt expect anything to control those leaks with external application.
I certainly have no doubt that the collar, now lined internally with Silasec, will not leak anymore.
Thanks for the tip @Ancient Mariner
You will have to dig a much bigger hole to give yourself room to work on the pipes.
Then you will be able to cut off the deformed pipe and replace it with a new bit of pipe.
To do this you will need a small length of pipe, a new joiner and a new 45 deg elbow.
Effect the repair But don't fill the hole in until you have proved that the joints don't leak.
The Worst part of the job will be digging out the hole the rest is pretty easy to do, Good Luck with this.
The old line from my well to my house is about 400m and I have had to fix dozens of these sorts of leaks due to root growth over the years (usually in 40c+ temps) and the polly is 400/500cm under the ground and is a real PITA to dig down to the pipe
You only get one shot at life, Aim well
2004 D2 "S" V8 auto, with a few Mods gone
2007 79 Series Landcruiser V8 Ute, With a few Mods.
4.6m Quintrex boat
20' Jayco Expanda caravan gone
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