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Thread: Security Alarm question

  1. #1
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    Security Alarm question

    Does anyone here know whether the Optex Mod. EX-35 Motion Sensor has cleanable contacts & can be cleaned with CRC Contact Cleaner spray?

    Thank you.

  2. #2
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    Nope. They all use sealed relays.

    what are the symptoms?

  3. #3
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    Had the installer here late last week as it sounded off at about 0300 found nothing wrong in that zone from what I could see. The bloke did find where a mouse, not a rat, had nibbled a section of cable but only the green & not right through. When tested it was all ok, but this a.m. when I walked out to go "wee wees" the pad was making a drawn out soft beeep & the same zone was flashing rapidly. Not wishing to awaken 'er indoors from her beauty sleep & get the wrath of the gods descended on me if the indoor screamer had gone off, (that would have made two screamers ) I disarmed the pad until this morning.

    I reset the system but it would not go into set mode & beeped at me about 5 times, all this time Zone 5 was flashing. Z 5 has the Optex Ex-35 sensor So before I rang the Installer again I thought I might be able get some contact cleaner into the contacts.


    It has done a similar event at night putting the system into Partial, that is, if anyone is moving in the house it gives a long beeeeeeeeep until they stop moving & then it goes in ok. Not sure if that is normal either.

    What you reckon, needs a new sensor?



    Oh yeah, the system is aprox 20 years old & has a GE Network X Alarm Panel. NX-12 ?

  4. #4
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    It'd be worth bypassing the PIR first just to make sure it's actually the detector at fault.

    Pop the cover off the PIR and you'll see the terminals. The NX-12 uses a 3.3K EOL resistor from memory. I'd wager you have 4 core cable, so red/black for 12V and probably yellow/green for the contact. If you wire the 3.3K directly across the yellow/green you'll bypass the detector (choccie block, bluepoints, twist and tape.. whatever works). That will allow you to rule out further cable damage or an issue with the panel. I'd do that first only because if you've had rodent damage where it's visible it is not at all unheard of to find it hidden somewhere else also.

    If it's the detector, just replace it.

    The *only* potential electro-mechanical issue might be if it has the tamper switch, which is a microswitch, but honestly a new detector is far cheaper than the call out to replace it and once they start to false alarm.. happy wife happy life.

    The Optex are good little units generally.

    It's all low voltage and about the worst possible thing you can do is pop the power fuse in the panel, so as long as you go carefully and document what went where (photos are good) there's pretty much no way you can make it any worse.

    If it's faulty you leave the resistor bypass in until you get a tech out to replace it and you can still use the rest of the panel. Of course the other option is to bypass/isolate the zone in the panel.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by BradC View Post
    It'd be worth bypassing the PIR first just to make sure it's actually the detector at fault.

    Pop the cover off the PIR and you'll see the terminals. The NX-12 uses a 3.3K EOL resistor from memory. I'd wager you have 4 core cable, so red/black for 12V and probably yellow/green for the contact. If you wire the 3.3K directly across the yellow/green you'll bypass the detector (choccie block, bluepoints, twist and tape.. whatever works). That will allow you to rule out further cable damage or an issue with the panel. I'd do that first only because if you've had rodent damage where it's visible it is not at all unheard of to find it hidden somewhere else also.

    If it's the detector, just replace it.

    The *only* potential electro-mechanical issue might be if it has the tamper switch, which is a microswitch, but honestly a new detector is far cheaper than the call out to replace it and once they start to false alarm.. happy wife happy life.

    The Optex are good little units generally.

    It's all low voltage and about the worst possible thing you can do is pop the power fuse in the panel, so as long as you go carefully and document what went where (photos are good) there's pretty much no way you can make it any worse.

    If it's faulty you leave the resistor bypass in until you get a tech out to replace it and you can still use the rest of the panel. Of course the other option is to bypass/isolate the zone in the panel.

    Thanks Brad. Yes 4 wire I haven't yet spoken to my man as he hasn't called back yet. Was a little hesitant to start faffing around in there lest I cause a Hiroshima type mishap but on your say so I will tackle it tomorrow when I can see what I am doing.

    I have tried bypassing the 5 zone on his recomd. last week which was fine until just before we went to bed & the bloody thing alarmed.????????

    That was "bypass 05 bypass" sequence. No idea what happened there. Should the code include the 0 or just the 5 only?

    What size fuse would it be & I assume a glass tube type?


    Anyway you are just down the street if I get into strife.


    Thank you again.

    Mr. bee.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by 4bee View Post
    What size fuse would it be & I assume a glass tube type?

    Anyway you are just down the street if I get into strife.
    Manual says zone to bypass must be 2 digits, so 0 5.

    Yes, glass fuse generally. Can't find any reference to one in the install manual, but I don't recall the last time I saw a panel that didn't have the detector supply fused. Manual says max 400mA on that output, so thereabouts. Just a tiddler.

    If it wasn't for having to quarantine on the way through I'd be driving past in a few weeks on my way to Melb. As it is it looks like I'll have to fly and put the car on the train.

  7. #7
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    It could be the resistor breaking down, they use resistors so the circuit can't be easily bypassed, shorted, jumpered, etc. Although with electronics, usually the 1st thing to go, is caps drying out as no doubt you'd know from your fridgie days.
    2005 D3 TDV6 Present
    1999 D2 TD5 Gone

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by BradC View Post
    Manual says zone to bypass must be 2 digits, so 0 5. Yes, glass fuse generally. Can't find any reference to one in the install manual, but I don't recall the last time I saw a panel that didn't have the detector supply fused. Manual says max 400mA on that output, so thereabouts. Just a tiddler. If it wasn't for having to quarantine on the way through I'd be driving past in a few weeks on my way to Melb. As it is it looks like I'll have to fly and put the car on the train.
    Thank you. Yes, a shame that. but all you would now need is a Parachute & a head for heights. You can't miss Adelaide as a target as it quite widespread unless they take the Southern Track & you'd finish up in the drink. I bypassed with BP>5>BP last night & it set ok & no strange behaviour. o/night. Weird eh?


    RL My experience with capacitors always seemed to be them shorting out , melting & filling the term box with wax & a big stink. But they were normally 35mfd Paper Start Cap Type ones Didn't have much trouble with oil filled which seemed a lot more stable to voltage. If that is the cause then it's a new Sensor anyway, as Brad indicated.

    The OPTEX exploded view doesn't show a Capacitor on the board but it is reasonable to assume that there is one there so????? It is not a very good Exp. view though. Yes I recall seeing long wire type Resistors being fitted to these yonks ago 1033 hrs here & the bloke hasn't got back to me yet. Bloody Tradies!

    He did repair the piece he cut out with a joiner.


    1055 EDIT,,Yes he just phoned, but after a discussion he hasn't any idea either. Sounds like he may have to come for a drive.

  9. #9
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    Des, find out when Brad has a job on the westside of his place. If you offer him a slice of vegemite toast and a drop o' stewed char, I'm sure he'll duck ove to yours, on his lunch break.
    If you don't like trucks, stop buying stuff.
    http://www.aulro.com/afvb/signaturepics/sigpic20865_1.gif

  10. #10
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    I wasn'r sure there was anything more West than Brad's Sandhill but then I didn't know just where that was anyway.

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