The timber is H4 and ends not cut. I will be sure to put the cut ends up. Is it worth still sealing those cut ends? I am now not sure if it is best to have the post sitting on a porous compacted gravel or on cement?
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The timber is H4 and ends not cut. I will be sure to put the cut ends up. Is it worth still sealing those cut ends? I am now not sure if it is best to have the post sitting on a porous compacted gravel or on cement?
My shed manufacturer specified concrete, so I assume that is the best option. No need to seal the ends, my cut ends were at the top(we put the h4 poles in and then did the levels and cut to size)and I didn't seal them, no need to with H4, and they are under the roof anyway. I have done retaining walls and cattle yards with 150x50 H4 timber and never sealed any of the cut ends, although we don't have termites here, so I assume that would be the only reason that it is suggested.Quote:
Originally Posted by edddo
We sat ours on bricks and then filled the holes with concrete.Quote:
Originally Posted by edddo
Just rode past a huge 400*400 post of treated pine laying on the ground this morning. Termites and rot are not timbers mate. About to use REPLAs for some work I am doing. I love timber just not the outside type with the short life span.Quote:
Originally Posted by edddo
I would use stirrups as suggested for timber. Cement is not rot or termite proof in any way. Treated pine has reasonably good termite protection. Replas is not up to building sizes yet sadly. Pine is cheaper of course. ROI in life span is worth considering Products - Recycled Plastic Products Made By Replas
If you are setting the posts in the ground always treat the ends.
The Copper Chromium Arsenate (CCA pien) only penetrates a few mm, as soon as you've cut the end you have no protection.
To make matters worse it the end grain is where 99% of timber starts rotting from - just treat it.
Its helps with termites but that's not why you do it.
Setting the post on saddles is a well proven method. Always set the post 20mm above the base of the saddle to avoid a water trap, again treat the ends with Copper naphthenate.
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TWA Heavy Oil Preservative - Preschem
Using saddles and braced structure is fine its a well proven structural method, most sheds and warehouses are built using it. Pins jointed portals they are called
Another timber that in my experience is Cypress Pine. Our local mills produce some dressed 125mm squares that look great, and are a better sizes for posts just look right, 90x90 or even 100x100 look too slender. It paints much better than treated pine which has that **** looking and hard to paint with the embossed stripping. Its used for posts and verandah posts on many houses and all those turned picket fences you see in well established suburbs.
Rated 15-25 years in ground. You could look at Boron rods too if you want even more, used in power poles to extend service life.
Its also stays much straighter than TP which has a habit of bending like a banana if you do not handle it with kid gloves and even can still do iyt. Slender section and the CCA process embodies a lot of trapped moisture they are supposed to re-dry it but they are notorious for buckling which looks just appalling
Cypress, White | WoodSolutions