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Thread: Firewood or Slabs?

  1. #61
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    Quote Originally Posted by DeeJay View Post
    I'm a bit late into this thread, but I was an area manager for McCulloch chainsaws back in the early 80's.- just at the end of them making great chainsaws. That meant quite a few field days & the Royal Show demonstrations ( pic is of a Forestry Industry expo) . We had a mill which consisted of two 100cc saws & a double ended -probably 60" bar & special chain- it had less wide cutters, probably what you have Roger.
    We regularly cut up slabs as the noise soon created a crowd. The best slabs were 150 year old Elm trees that were removed from Caulfield park to make way for a lake- 2x 6' & about 50" wide. They cost us a 50' reel of chain !!. We had a backlog of orders from the audience & sold them for beer money- but we did drink a fair bit on those occasions.
    From what we gleaned from the old timers, especially red gum, was the best result is to "chuck them in a dam for a year or so" we soon found that anything less than 50mm would warp, and cypress was useless as slabs.
    Very impressed by your efforts there... but I guess you don't have a dam..
    DavidAttachment 172445
    Paint the ends if you want to minimise warping. You'll note that the ends will start splitting first because they dry out faster, if left unsealed.

    My old man used to use glycol to do this, based on a recommendation from someone whose knowledge he really respected. Haven't used it myself.

    Most likely polyethylene glycol, NOT normal anti-freeze.

    Do your own research before sealing the ends of your slabs.

    DL

  2. #62
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    Quote Originally Posted by 350RRC View Post
    Paint the ends if you want to minimise warping. You'll note that the ends will start splitting first because they dry out faster, if left unsealed.

    My old man used to use glycol to do this, based on a recommendation from someone whose knowledge he really respected. Haven't used it myself.

    Most likely polyethylene glycol, NOT normal anti-freeze.

    Do your own research before sealing the ends of your slabs.

    DL
    Another thing that works well is PVA glue. You can buy it in 5 litre bottles from Bunnings (cheap stuff). Some dilute it in water and paint the ends of boards / logs etc. I just use it straight - paint it on thick with a brush and let it dry. Works well for me. I collect interesting timber for wood turning, and always seal the ends of logs / bowl blanks etc as soon as I have cut them - then store them on a pallet under a heavy tarp up in the back corner of the yard until I need them.

  3. #63
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    Quote Originally Posted by BMKal View Post
    Another thing that works well is PVA glue. You can buy it in 5 litre bottles from Bunnings (cheap stuff). Some dilute it in water and paint the ends of boards / logs etc. I just use it straight - paint it on thick with a brush and let it dry. Works well for me. I collect interesting timber for wood turning, and always seal the ends of logs / bowl blanks etc as soon as I have cut them - then store them on a pallet under a heavy tarp up in the back corner of the yard until I need them.
    I had heard, oil, wax, tar, paint but never PVA. That's actually a really good idea and pretty much every woodworker has PVA coming out of their ears already.
    Cheers
    Slunnie


    ~ Discovery II Td5 ~ Discovery 3dr V8 ~ Series IIa 6cyl ute ~ Series II V8 ute ~

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