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Thread: Dealer Network - buy a Toyota they say

  1. #11
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    Dealer Network - buy a Toyota they say

    Quote Originally Posted by rar110 View Post
    For touring/off road work discs/callipers just seem more reliable. In Toyota’s case I don’t know why discs are standard on a entry level GX Fortuna but not even an option on the Hilux 4WD SR5 which costs more.
    My guess would be two fold - firstly Hiluxs wouldn’t use up much in the way of back brakes as when they aren’t loaded I doubt the rears are doing anything whereas the body and rearward weight on a Fortuna would see the rear brakes doing more. My work Hilux is 5 years old and about to click over 200,000KM and has never had rear shoes done, but front pads twice and 1 set of discs. Secondly I would imagine the margins on a Hilux are more so making them cheaper means even more money in Yotas back pocket.
    If you need to contact me please email homestarrunnerau@gmail.com - thanks - Gav.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Homestar View Post
    My guess would be two fold - firstly Hiluxs wouldn’t use up much in the way of back brakes as when they aren’t loaded I doubt the rears are doing anything whereas the body and rearward weight on a Fortuna would see the rear brakes doing more. My work Hilux is 5 years old and about to click over 200,000KM and has never had rear shoes done, but front pads twice and 1 set of discs. Secondly I would imagine the margins on a Hilux are more so making them cheaper means even more money in Yotas back pocket.
    Slightly stealing the thread but nevertheless interesting, a coupla months ago i fitted new Genuine rear shoes to my 2000 Hilux 4WD tray with 544,000 klms. Third set of shoes. Since fitting them I have a hugely annoying problem when I reverse out of my driveway they lock up within a few feet but ONLY, repeat ONLY on a cold/damp day!

    Before you say they are over adjusted... NOPE, they spin freely.
    I always chamfer the leading & trailing edges on shoes when I fit them, have done since the 1960's, mainly to help avoid squeals.

    When they lock up I tap the brakes and they'll come ok for a metre or so then do it again. It takes around 5 applications to reverse out of my driveway. Once I've driven down the road and used the brakes once or twice the problem is fixed, never occurs again whilst the brakes are warm. I fitted new genuine drums and wheel cylinders at same time.
    And yes, all the return springs are in correct place!

    The problem won't occur for the remainder of the day.

    Can't stop the squeal in reverse, have tried everything from sanding, chamfer sides of lining, roughen up drum, etc etc.

    I am convinced it is due to lack of asbestos in the lining and it is made from some diabolical environmentally safe material which sweats under cold/damp conditions.

    Oh, and the local dealer didn't have an engine oil pressure switch in stock or in Aus.... ex Japan. REPCO had one.
    Before: Ser 2a LWB, Ser 3 S/W, 1979 RR 2 door, 1981 LR Stage 1 V8 (new), 1985 LR 110 V8 County (new), 2009 RRS TDV8
    Now: MY13 D4 TDV6. "E" rear diff. Cambo's magic Engine & Auto Tune. 1968 Austin 1800 Mk1 auto (my 5th)

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    Quote Originally Posted by rar110 View Post
    For touring/off road work discs/callipers just seem more reliable. In Toyota’s case I don’t know why discs are standard on a entry level GX Fortuna but not even an option on the Hilux 4WD SR5 which costs more.
    And also changing a set of pads,and often rotors(not rears with EPB ) is often a lot easier than replacing and setting up a set of linings.

    i remember the old man complaining years ago about brake linings wearing out very quickly on Series LR's that they had, on Fraser island.

    Sand and dirt wears out rear pads prematurely as well,but changing just pads is pretty easy.

    And to add,as i have said on other posts,we have never touched the brakes on any of our Hi Ace vans,many have done just over 300 000km,when they are moved on.
    All are manual which may help,and the brakes work very well.

  4. #14
    DiscoMick Guest
    Dealers for all brands rarely hold many stocks now, it is money not being used. Parts get flown in from capital cities. Toyota is the same.
    Just upgrade your motoring club membership to the top level so you can get trucked to a major dealer or home if necessary.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Discodicky View Post
    Slightly stealing the thread but nevertheless interesting, a coupla months ago i fitted new Genuine rear shoes to my 2000 Hilux 4WD tray with 544,000 klms. Third set of shoes. Since fitting them I have a hugely annoying problem when I reverse out of my driveway they lock up within a few feet but ONLY, repeat ONLY on a cold/damp day!

    Before you say they are over adjusted... NOPE, they spin freely.
    I always chamfer the leading & trailing edges on shoes when I fit them, have done since the 1960's, mainly to help avoid squeals.

    When they lock up I tap the brakes and they'll come ok for a metre or so then do it again. It takes around 5 applications to reverse out of my driveway. Once I've driven down the road and used the brakes once or twice the problem is fixed, never occurs again whilst the brakes are warm. I fitted new genuine drums and wheel cylinders at same time.
    And yes, all the return springs are in correct place!

    The problem won't occur for the remainder of the day.

    Can't stop the squeal in reverse, have tried everything from sanding, chamfer sides of lining, roughen up drum, etc etc.

    I am convinced it is due to lack of asbestos in the lining and it is made from some diabolical environmentally safe material which sweats under cold/damp conditions.

    Oh, and the local dealer didn't have an engine oil pressure switch in stock or in Aus.... ex Japan. REPCO had one.
    Are the pads supposed to self adjust in reverse? If so, is there something wrong with the 'mechanism'?

    My non LR ute does that apparently. Have NFI how it works, but it does. No squealing.

    DL

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    Quote Originally Posted by 350RRC View Post
    Are the pads supposed to self adjust in reverse? If so, is there something wrong with the 'mechanism'?

    My non LR ute does that apparently. Have NFI how it works, but it does. No squealing.

    DL
    It's a ratchet that works, if there is enough movement to catch the next tooth, when the brakes are applied while the vehicle is moving backwards. The mechanism is notoriously unreliable.
    If you don't like trucks, stop buying stuff.
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  7. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by V8Ian View Post
    It's a ratchet that works, if there is enough movement to catch the next tooth, when the brakes are applied while the vehicle is moving backwards. The mechanism is notoriously unreliable.
    In a Lux?

    Mine is Ford Courier aka Mazda 1999.

    I twigged to this when he only had the problem in reverse.

    DL

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    Quote Originally Posted by V8Ian View Post
    It's a ratchet that works, if there is enough movement to catch the next tooth, when the brakes are applied while the vehicle is moving backwards. The mechanism is notoriously unreliable.
    Hi Mr Ian, can you please empty your inbox.

    Sorry for the hijack peeps.

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    Few years a go when my brother & I were in business. we run Toyotas & when they needed parts I called consumables ( hoses , V belts , ect) was told they didn't stock parts in Brisbane but could get them up over night at my cost, I told them I would not pay for the freight on parts I considered consumables & never did. We went from Toyota's to Rodeo's , big mistake , could not buy parts for them in AU once they got to 2 years old. After that we started buying Ford Courier's & Falcon 1 ton's , parts were always available from our local dealer. We stuck with Fords up to when we sold the business & retired.

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    Quote Originally Posted by 350RRC View Post
    Are the pads supposed to self adjust in reverse? If so, is there something wrong with the 'mechanism'?

    My non LR ute does that apparently. Have NFI how it works, but it does. No squealing.

    DL
    In theory, the design of the multiple springs and 'levers' etc are supposed to ratchet up and adjust the brakes when you apply the brakes whilst reversing but I've never experienced a vehicle yet where it works like its supposed to. An American design I think.

    The key point is that it only happens when the ambient temp is very low or more particularly the air is damp or it's raining.
    This morning with temp about 10 deg it was ok.
    That's why I think the shoe linings are absorbing moisture from the air and causing the problem.

    BTW, I spoke with the parts dept of the local Toyota dealer where I bought them and their response was as I expected..... bring the shoes to them and buy a new set shoes, and if the returned shoes were deemed faulty by Toyota then I'd get a credit.

    Ha, I'm not that silly, can you imagine how long that would take to get a response and I know what it would be anyway..... that I should have had my local Dealer do the job in the first place!

    I'll just suffer, Spring & Summer isn't too far away..........
    Before: Ser 2a LWB, Ser 3 S/W, 1979 RR 2 door, 1981 LR Stage 1 V8 (new), 1985 LR 110 V8 County (new), 2009 RRS TDV8
    Now: MY13 D4 TDV6. "E" rear diff. Cambo's magic Engine & Auto Tune. 1968 Austin 1800 Mk1 auto (my 5th)

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