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Thread: Disappearing U-bolts

  1. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by scarry View Post
    Nulock nuts will sort them,but they should be a one use item.
    I know of people who get double duty out of them by gently tapping the 'cap' on the nylon part with an American screwdriver (my mechanical genius grandfather's name for a hammer).

    Works for me, but 'don't try this at home'.

    DL

  2. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by 350RRC View Post
    I know of people who get double duty out of them by gently tapping the 'cap' on the nylon part with an American screwdriver (my mechanical genius grandfather's name for a hammer).

    Works for me, but 'don't try this at home'.

    DL
    We do that at work on occasions,but on something where they are used as a critical component,we always only use them once.

    Crankshaft nut for a flywheel is a good example.
    And use a torque wrench.

  3. #13
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    Yeah, I only do it on the little ones. It's not as if they're expensive.

    DL

  4. #14
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    I use "Nord-lock" washers on trailer suspension U bolts, with Nyloc nuts for added safety. I learnt the hard way after having to rescue a friend a while back when his trailer and axle parted company on one side coming back from Wave Rock to Kalgoorlie on a weekend camping trip. I managed to hold his trailer together with fencing wire for long enough to get it home, and then we fitted all new U bolts with Nord-locks and Nyloc nuts. I never use "spring washers" for anything - they are crap.

    I learnt about "Nord-lock" washers while working with crushers for years. The vibration experienced in these machines will shake anything loose - except for Nord-locks. I now always keep a box of various sizes in the shed and still use them regularly. You can get them at any decent fasteners supplier - such as Blackwoods - (I won't use the cheap Chinese copy of these that Bunnings flogs).

    https://www.blackwoods.com.au/fasten...38195/variants
    Cheers .........

    BMKAL


  5. #15
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    I've seen enough broken U-bolts that when I built my camper trailer I was having none of them, came up with a far better solution using clamp plates and HT bolts. 21 years and many thousands of outback km and every time I check them they are still snug.
    spring and airbag.jpg

  6. #16
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    youre on the money here Pod.

    as I read further into the thread. I thought why doesnt any one use plates and hi tensile bolts and there you go.

  7. #17
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    Hello All,

    Back in 2019 I bought a brand new dual axle trailer. In my second week of ownership the trailer came to a dramatic stop after the rear axle passenger side U-bolts disappeared and the axle moved backwards onto the chassis. After parking the car and trailer off the side of the highway I walked along the road behind the trailer picking up leaf springs. After I continued the walk further down the road I found one of the U - bolts. It had broken off at a bend where the bolt changed direction. It had pinch marks where the bend must have been forced by a die when it was manufactured. The u-bolt broke off at the pinch. Once I got into town I went to a trailer supplier and all their u-bolts had the same die-formed pinch. I bought a complete set of larger diameter of u-bolts that were a different brand for the trailer - ones without the pinch. The trailer has had no troubles since then.

    Kind regards
    Lionel

  8. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lionelgee View Post
    Hello All,

    Back in 2019 I bought a brand new dual axle trailer. In my second week of ownership the trailer came to a dramatic stop after the rear axle passenger side U-bolts disappeared and the axle moved backwards onto the chassis. After parking the car and trailer off the side of the highway I walked along the road behind the trailer picking up leaf springs. After I continued the walk further down the road I found one of the U - bolts. It had broken off at a bend where the bolt changed direction. It had pinch marks where the bend must have been forced by a die when it was manufactured. The u-bolt broke off at the pinch. Once I got into town I went to a trailer supplier and all their u-bolts had the same die-formed pinch. I bought a complete set of larger diameter of u-bolts that were a different brand for the trailer - ones without the pinch. The trailer has had no troubles since then.

    Kind regards
    Lionel
    X 2
    I had the same sort of problems with a small trailer, the Ubolt looked more like a V than a U. I noticed one of the bolts had broken when I had to change a flat. Trailer had done barely a 1k. As I had a round axle I replaced them with a set of "proper" UBolts just from the local hardware store, 15 years later I've not had any problems.

    Cheers Glen

  9. #19
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    For the benefit of anyone else who, like me, had never heard of Nord-Locks, the following video shows how they work.

    Nord-Lock Wedge-Locking Washers - Junker Vibration Test - YouTube

    1973 Series III LWB 1983 - 2006
    1998 300 Tdi Defender Trayback 2006 - often fitted with a Trayon slide-on camper.

  10. #20
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    Well I just gave the wheels a kick on the old trailer here before it was hooked up and thought "hmm, loose wheel bearings"... but they field good ... weird .... So I shook the entire trailer and it moved against the axle....... Ohhhh..... I had a look under it ... every "U" bolt is loose ..... I'm betting they are all stretched. I "might" have accidentaly massively overloaded it one or twice ... or maybe 100 times. I'm going to replace htem not tighten them as I reckon they are now unsafe for use.

    Have you massively overloaded the trailer lately ? (or lent it to anyone ).

    seeya,
    shane L.
    Proper cars--
    '92 Range Rover 3.8V8 ... 5spd manual
    '85 Series II CX2500 GTi Turbo I :burnrubber:
    '63 ID19 x 2 :wheelchair:
    '72 DS21 ie 5spd pallas
    Modern Junk:
    '07 Poogoe 407 HDi 6spd manual :zzz:
    '11 Poogoe RCZ HDI 6spd manual

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