Thread: What to look for in a classic rangie

I think you need to think of a price first, then find out what is available. I bought my 87/88 for $6000, two owners in very nice condition. I had a customer through a few weeks ago who had a 92 or thereabouts with heaps of mods in great condition that he had paid about $19000 for. But put them side by side and a non expert probably wouldn't pick the differences.

Originally Posted by BigJon

I think you need to think of a price first, then find out what is available. I bought my 87/88 for $6000, two owners in very nice condition. I had a customer through a few weeks ago who had a 92 or thereabouts with heaps of mods in great condition that he had paid about $19000 for. But put them side by side and a non expert probably wouldn't pick the differences.

I saw a smick 96 HSE go through the auctions a few months ago at $15500, which surprised me. My estimate was $12000 tops.

Hi There I can’t pretend to be any sort of expert but I can tell you the hassle and problems I have had and what I would look for if I bought another one.
I bought an 81.


A-frame ball joint - does it knock when pulling away?

Shock & Springs – does it roll like a boat around corners

Overheating – run it to normal temp does it go over half way across the gauge, if it does it’s overheating. If you rev/drive it hard for a while it will go over for a while but it should cool back down again when at normal revs.

Check the plugs, if they are powdery black the carbs could be set incorrectly, (too rich) or in my case totally buggered, ($700 recondition). I’m sure the bloke I bought it off put new plugs in just for my test drive. So check the plugs after a run and be wary if the plugs are new and no other ignition electrics look new.
While you have the plug out check for a good spark.

Diff lock – check the centre diff lock switch/stick make sure the diff lock light comes on, don’t assume it’s a bulb if it doesn’t.

That’s the problems I have had, I haven’t been too lucky up to now !!!

You should also look at :
Power steering box for leaks.

Check the aircon if it’s important to you. I went to look at one, he said the air needed recharging but there was no pump!

Check the steering rack, if it’s been off road a lot it could be bent.

General rust – this is usually the last thing I would look for because most of the rangies I have seen don’t seem to get much rust but …….
Check, internal door frames and around hinges, (they are steel inside).
Along the bottom of the doors for aluminum corrosion.
Front foot wells, (lift the carpet).
Underneath the rear wheel.
Around the tailgate window.
Along the bottom of the lower tailgate, (if it is going to rust it will be here!)

Good luck finding you rangie, and remember there are a lot of them out there for sale so be picky, if you get a well maintained rangie it should last a lifetime, so I’m told

Hi there, personally i would go for either a '87,'88 because you get the lt230 or a '90/'91 because you get the 3.9. I have an '89 with a 3.5 and the viscous transfer which i am currently converting to the lt230.

Go the newer one with the 3.9

I bought a 92 Classic a few months back, $6700 which i think is a good price, it's in very good nick with the few usual 14 year old wear and tear issues, it's pretty bullit proof and goes very well, at that price it will have a few things that are'nt right, the only thing so far that has tripped me up was the Viscous Coupling was'nt working in the transferr box, luckily i got away with spending $1200 to get it back and running and it's been fine since, the thing is, driving a car like that on a test drive, you can't tell if the coupling is working and it will cost a lot to fix when you find out if it is'nt going..
If you can, jack up a front wheel with a trolly jack and try carefully to drive away, if the car want's to move, it's working, if a wheel spins, it's kaput...

Otherwise, you can get a very good car, for not a lot of money..

I'd recommend you PM aquarangie and direct him to this thread. He's bought a few Classics in his time, coz he keeps breaking them. LOL

Originally Posted by vogue

Hi there, personally i would go for either a '87,'88 because you get the lt230 or a '90/'91 because you get the 3.9. I have an '89 with a 3.5 and the viscous transfer which i am currently converting to the lt230.

Go the newer one with the 3.9

Yer thats why I was trying to stay under the 90 model as thats when I was told the viscous t/case was intoduced.

I am willing to spend up to $ 10 000 on a well maintained modified unit, but would like to spend around the 5-7 grand on a well maintained standard unit. I think this is reasonable, what do you think ?

Kms dosn't worry me, if the 3.5 dies it will die fighting & it seams to be a straight foward swap for the bigger motor.
I also want to stay away from all those stinking electrics that caused me so much trouble modifying the disco, so NO abs, air suspension or traction control etc.
Air con is a must as my Minister for war & finance has stated I will not be getting one with out it, especially after I put a stick through the condenser in the defender & turned the a/c pump into an endless air. lol.& now have bub to think about as well.



There dosn't seam to be a big choice in QLD, but Melbourne seams to have allot to choose from.

Thanks for your help so far.