Thread: Original Stage 1

G'day Sam Ball, nice looking original rig you have there, my son used to have a Series 3 Stage 1 with 3.9 Isuzu which he sold to a chap in Victoria, he is not using it but keeping it as a collectors item, it was also in very good condition for it's age (1981), anyway welcome to the fold and we all hope you enjoy driving it topless. Yes it is relativley easy to remove the hardtop but unless you can rig up pulley system to lift it off in one piece and store it hanging up in the roof of your garage you will need at least 3 other able bodied people to help as they are quite awkward, it's the glass that makes up most of the weight, anyway cheers Dennis

G'day Sam.
Very clean looking original rig.
I have often wondered are there any restrictions with Vicroads for removing the roof ???

I still have the emissions cr*p in the engine bay of my s3 (1982) - 2 1/4, does anyone out there have a picture of what it should look like as I would like to have a clean up, or what year did the emissons stuff start getting fitted ?, would it still pass a road worthy with out it

Thanks Dennis

I think you're saying that you take the roof and the side panels off in one hit - that would be simpler - I was thinking it was a 2 stage process, first the roof and second the side panels, but all at once would be simpler.

Originally Posted by Lucas

G'day Sam.
Very clean looking original rig.
I have often wondered are there any restrictions with Vicroads for removing the roof ???

I still have the emissions cr*p in the engine bay of my s3 (1982) - 2 1/4, does anyone out there have a picture of what it should look like as I would like to have a clean up, or what year did the emissons stuff start getting fitted ?, would it still pass a road worthy with out it

I don't have a picture of it for that year, but some emissions gear was fitted from mid - 2a production. As far as I can see from my S3 handbook (mine, 1981, is a diesel, so I can't look at it, but the owner's handbook covers all engines of course) it only comprises a positive crankcase ventilation system plus sealed adjustment on the idling speed and mixture. There are two systems described, apparently depending on which carburetter is fitted.

It is extremely unlikely that the emissions would be checked for a roadworthy although without the gear it would certainly fail if it was checked. It is also very unlikely that the examiner would be sufficiently well informed to realise it was missing. Note that if you remove the positive crankcase you should fit the pre-emissions system rather than leave no proper ventilation or to allow dust into the engine, particularly if the vehicle is used for short trips and in a cool damp climate.

John

Originally Posted by Sam Ball

Try again...

Thanks everyone for your advice over the last few months, I finally bought a car two weeks ago, a 1982 Stage 1.

It still has the original restrictor plates on the carby's, which I have been told would improve power if removed, but does this mean that you also have to increase the size of the manifold/extractors?

Thanks again for all your advice, it's not an easy car to drive, the breaks are like using a leg press machine at the gym and the fuel ecconomy is **** house, but I love it - I can see why you're all so obsessed.

No, you don't need different exhaust, although of course, this would be an added improvement.

The other thing you will find unless already modified, is the spring loaded valves on the carby butterflys which allow extra air in whilst idling. Plays havoc with engine braking. I fixed mine by soldering them up, which made a huge difference. Can explain more if you're interested.

Agree re the brakes and you need muscles in your s..t at car park speeds to steer the thing

mate all ill say is be carefull with toorak tractors i know from experience

hey but its a nice looking rig

Thanks - I would like further information on the butterfly valve, and any other information that might improve the efficiency - the fuel ecconomy is pretty ordinary. I was told by Dave Benson that the restrictors were put in place to de tune it to 96? HP for the drum brakes - so would this mean that fuel efficiency would also improve if the engine was allowed to breathe properly? - Any advice would be much appreciated.

And to Rangieman - can you recommend anyone else for repairs, etc - they did seem to specialise more in Disco's and Range Rovers.

Thanks again to everyone for all your advice.

Originally Posted by numpty

No, you don't need different exhaust, although of course, this would be an added improvement.

The other thing you will find unless already modified, is the spring loaded valves on the carby butterflys which allow extra air in whilst idling. Plays havoc with engine braking. I fixed mine by soldering them up, which made a huge difference. Can explain more if you're interested.

Agree re the brakes and you need muscles in your s..t at car park speeds to steer the thing

I forgot about that one, I bought solid ones instead of soldering- it was easier as the carbies stayed in place. They are probably still available.