Use of handbrake on downhill

The thing with a Hand brake on a Landy is it is designed to be on or off. And not designed to slow the truck down. It is designed to hold the car in place once the truck is stopped.

The Land Rover line is (well at Solihull anyway) is that the handbrake should never be used while the car is moving. And brakes should only be used go down hill when the car starts to run away. But very very lightly, and at that dabbing to just bring the car under control


Ali
(Land Rover Experiance Off road Driving instructor)

I have used the handbrake to assist in controlled descents on many occasions, both in manual vehicles and automatics with no ill effects. It is particularly useful in really slippery situations where the use of the foot brake will cause lock up of the wheels.

It is something I have also heard other instructors doing and recommending for severe situations. Of course this only applies to vehicles like Land Rovers which use a brake on the driveshafts rather than wheel.

I think a few posters above have also misunderstood its use. The handbrake should be lightly applied (one or two notches) at the beginning of the descent and driven through - similar to driving through the footbrakes in an auto. It is not recommended that the handbrake be yanked on half way down a hill to slow down or stop a vehicle.

If I use the handbrake on the 130 when it's still moving, it judders something chronic. Holds like Tarzan's-Grip on a steep slope though.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by spudboy

If I use the handbrake on the 130 when it's still moving, it judders something chronic. Holds like Tarzan's-Grip on a steep slope though.

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I would be taking the drum off and giving it a good clean.

I've always been told to use the transmission handbrake. I find in an auto it's much safer to use the handbrake than to use foot brake plus it saves your brakes from fading on steep long downhill decents. I never engage it fully but it does assist in slowing the Rangie down and saves you loosing control. Also with 33's on I need it ATM til I can fork out the brass for 4.11 CW&P set :eek: :eek:

It does need adjusting more rguarly though i have found and woerth checking the shoes every 6 months or so. In moderation, it's okay but never hoik it on fully you'll kill it!!

Trav

While you can slow the vehicle with the handbrake its not reccomended as the park brake in a rover is only intended as a holding brake not a working brake. Excluding the potential of damaging the brake itself, If it locks on hard you can damage your UJ's or propshaft from shock loading, if your lucky, if your unlucky it'll be a halfshaft or diff component.

as I was taught with an auto.....youve got 2 basic options, one is great for when you have low traction the other for when you have excellent traction but need to really really finesse the forward motion..

The first is driving the brakes good for low traction descents. Takes a lot of practice and you need to be good at either heel/toe or left foot braking... Its been discussed in other threads but essentially

Lock it in first low, hold just enough RPMS to keep the torque converter working then as you descend use the brakes to slow the vehicle enough to make the RPMS dip and stay at the level you set.

The second is driving against the converter...

Broach the crest, hold it on the brakes, select reverse accellerate as you ease off the brakes.. Then by modulating the throttle you can control your forwards speed... Be Warned while its easier than left foot braking if you run out of grip you want to be quick on the shift to get it in first and on the loud pedal to get the vehicle under control otherwise it is going to end badly.. Doing this for extended periods can overheat the tx oil.

As with all 4x4ing techniques practice it somewhere safe first.

First up I would never recommend either method. But saying that, I do know of the technique using the foot brake in an automatic only. The trick is to lock it into first low, hold revs at approx 1200-1500rpm and have your foot on the brake at the same time. As I said I wouldn't recommend it but it does work. As for your hand brake - seems a good way to cause damage to your drive line to me - or possibly your transfer case anyway.

Isn't this why gear sets are available for your transfer case. I know that the set I put in from Maxi-Drive where the best damn investment I ever made. Yes it does cost a little, but it beats relying on foot brakes or handbrakes to my mind.

Cheers
Chris

We were trained in the Army- in the 70's - to brake heavily, slowing the vehicle almost to a stall, then foot off the brake untill it over revved, then heavy brake again. This way the drums had time to cool, much preferrable than constant pressure or feathering.

As far as the handbrake is concerned, it would need to be a real emergency as you are putting the load from 4 wheel brakes on to one drum brake, and the Disco has a smaller one than the Landies:eek:

Geez you Landy owners don't know how good you've got it :o (guess that includes me now :o

When going down a steep descent in my petrol manual Rodeo I used to have to ride the brakes down even a moderate hill and that was BEFORE I fitted the 31in tyres.

Now in my petrol manual Disco I put it in low low on a steep descent and it almost stops. It is really good when you do this on a loose steep descent and you skid to the bottom with wheel lock up. I love having the extra reduction but it is taking some getting used to.

As for using the handbrake I haven't needed it on my disco yet but I tried it a few times on my Rodeo (rear drum) and preffered feathering the brakes. Never had a fade problem.

Iheard that rock crawler gears can be too slow on steep slippery decents& the car may start 2 slide anyway. Sound feasable?
Cheers Dean.