Thread: Cleaning up thos mags of yours for a personality change - best $37 i ever spent.

I didnt take step by step pics, but i have three more wheels to do so if someone wants i can but anywayz here goes

So i started by taking the journey to KBauto1 to pick my choice paint. I had no idea on what was needed to paint on alloy so like the noob does he asks for some freindly advice from the sales representative
I'll start by sayin that i used the touch up type paints for cars, cant remeber the brand but only kb auto sells it.

So this is what you will need:

- Can of primer, i have the big can, and will probably get me through all 4 wheels (15")
- A few cans of you desired color coat - i chose tungsten from a VX commodore ( ith ink) which is a mettlic mica, i'd say ill need 3 (they are little cans, if you know the brand im talking about, you will understand)
- Some wet and dry, i think i used 800, was just what i had in the garage.
- Some masking tape that sticks
- Some newspaper - hopefully you dont have to go throught the bins to get them - or the neighbors
- Some wax and grease remover/prepsol or similar

So start by taking you wheel(s) off the car, and if you havent cleaned them its better to do it although it doesnt really matter if you dont, then start sanding the wheel where you want to paint, only needs to be rouch and light to get rid of the crap and some flaking paint or clear coat if there is one.

Now clean down where you want to paint with your wax and grease remover or similar, put down a sheet or carboard so you dont paint the floor in dads (or whoevers) garage, then using the newspaper and masking tape start masking up the tyre and then get some short strips, go around the edge and get a small screwdriver and run around the rim/tyre bead so you get an even coverage on the rims. If you have a polished lip you want to keep mask that too. Also dont forget to mask the valve.

Now you're clean and masked get out your paint and READ (thats right) read the back of the can for instructions on recoat and drying, application etc BEFORE you start. now get you primer and start spraying in the nooks and crannys and then finaly even out the face of the rim, in my case, allow to be tough dry and recoat or got onto the next step. nice even light coats

Get out you color and again start with all the nooks and crannys and then even it out in the face, nice thin coats is best as you dont want it to run and with the shape of some wheel you will be garunteed (spelling?) a run if you rush, be patient (thats big coming from me )

Build up thin coats until you are happy with the body and depth of the paint and stand back and admire you wet paint. if you plan on using a clear coat for extra protection now id you time to do it (after it flashes off of course)

Now leave at least overnight i would suggest before unmasking and refitting to vehicle, and if you want a real shine 5-7 days before polishing and probably adding tyre shine if thats what your into. Stand back and admire the hard work you did.

And with painting best to do it when its not humid and definatly not cold as the paint wont flow, i did it in the garage so there was no breeze that could bring dust and crap onto my paint finish.

After all that im very impressed with my outcome and look a little bit like volk racing wheels color wise (i wish ) and i think they will look smick as on my white Range Rover.

BEFORE: Cleaned up rust bolts and painted black on axles now.

AFTER: Without flash - shows true gloss

AFTER: With Camera Flash - shows more mettalic, less shine, but in person they look awesome

more....im very impressed with the way it came out, next project will be fixing up some of the war scars (read: massive dents) and a good clean and respray in a few small areas. The paint will stand up toi the conditions they will be subject to, once hardened, and next time i might use clear to give it that extra glossy shine.

enjoy.