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Thread: plan for '92 RR centre console needed

  1. #1
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    plan for '92 RR centre console needed

    Hi everyone. I am a new member to the AULRO site, and have a question I hope someone can help with. I have a '92 Rangie, that is in great nic all round, except for a deteriorating centre console. Apparently this is a common problem. The console houses the electric window controls and a general storage area. I plan on making a new one from scratch, and wondered if anyone knew where to locate a plan, or if you've done this yourself any advice would really be appreciated. I could remove the old one and plan it from there, but if there is a plan available, it would be easier. Any help you can offer would be great. Thanks, WAParamedic.

  2. #2
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    I have made a centre consoe once and ATM I am making another inc. the radio section (bloody fiddly.

    I just copied (or sketched) the shape off the old one after I had hacked it to bits. It's a fiddly job and time consuming but if you use the right materials it will be a ****load stronger than the crap original . I am using marine ply although expensive it will last unlike the 2-ply I made the first one out of.

    I'll take some pics of it and post them up in the projects section. My 'fabrication' work isn't the best and I am a bit of a rough bastard but it works

    Trav

  3. #3
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    Thanks mate. I was thinking just the same- marine ply will be heaps stronger. Look forward to seeing the photos. Jules.

  4. #4
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    Just use 12mm ply, it doesn't need to be exterior grade or finished ply, the difference between grades of ply is the glue used to bond the layers together. Also the plywood layers themselves on exterior grade are a tighter grain with minimal defects. Most building supplies or hardware stores can get what’s called "seconds" which are rejects, perfect for this sort of use and will save you a few dollars per sheet. An 8x4 (2400 x 1200mm) round $50 per sheet.

    If you don't have any woodwork tools, Circular saw, jig saw, drill, cordless etc...
    Some building supplies have panel saws and will for a small fee cut up a sheet to sizes you give them. Failing that take the sheet to a Cabinet Maker and again most will chop it up for you. $30 - $50 dollars depending upon how much of their time you waste.

    Glue/screw it together with either PVA, liquid nails etc, don't go nuts with the screws, every 100 - 200mm is fine, too close and you will split the plywood layers apart. Using some fine pin nails to initially hold it together will make it easier to screw it (I use a nail gun, simply because I have it)

    Vinyl by the metre and felt lining from most upholsters, don't use the stuff with the thick form backing as the end result looks homemade or cheap. Use dense foam for the lid top or go to a camping store and buy one of them cheap thin roll up foam mattresses (same foam), obviously you vinyl over the foam lid. I use spray on contact adhesive that comes in a drum and use a conventional suction feed spray gun. Failing that the brush on stuff is a bit more fiddly to work with, but does the job. Put contact adhesive on both the vinyl and the plywood and wait until touch dry and keep in mind contact adhesive is bonded on contact so don't line it up wrong. Wet bonding with contact adhesive is messy and more fiddly.

    But taking the finished constructed console to an upholsters and getting them to cover it is also well worth it as the finish is so professional with the nice stitched corners etc. Cost for them to do it is round $90 - $140 depending on size etc.

    Other items,
    Use a length of nice piano hinge for the lid.
    To prevent the lid from falling back hard and straining the hinge/screws (like in a disco). You can use a lid stay/lock, string or put a bead of mastic/liquid nails under the hinge before you screw it on for the final time.

    I've done heaps of overhead, centre and rear consoles like this with nice professional looking results and way cheaper, stronger and better looking than just about any plastic ones I've seen.

    Best regards
    DarrenR

  5. #5
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    I too wish to make a new console. My current one is held togther with cable ties, araldite and silicone, but still falls to pieces when I select 5th gear!

    I was planning on marine ply, and also incorporating a small waeco fridge somehow, but this means I would sacrifice the only storage area in the entire car!

    One day I will get around to it.

    Cheers
    Andrew
    Andrew
    1998 Landrover Defender 300Tdi 130 HCPU Expedition
    1972 Peugeot 504 Sedan - Daily Driver

  6. #6
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    Just as an added note,
    The difference between Marine, Structural, Exterior, Interior grade plywoods;

    Marine grade is mildly treated more against rot and can be used when a specific AU standard is required such as the hull of a boat (once it's cut, you need to retreat the edges). Marine grade has a 0% core gaps, Exterior grade and interior grade will have some, structural grade it maybe common (which over a 2400 x 1200 sheet is still minimal for all of them).

    Marine, Exterior and Structural grade Plywood have the same bond rating of A and the same structural rating of F17.

    Interior grade plywood doesn't have a structural rating and doesn't use a waterproof bonding glue, but being plywood (the same Hoop Pine) it's far more waterproof than other manufactured timber sheeting (our chook pen is made out of interior Plywood, MDF and simply painted).

    So basically Marine grade your paying for the fact it meets a specific standard and unless it's marked as Marine Plywood, you wouldn't pick the difference. Interior grade Plywood can be picked as the glue line between the ply layers is light in colour, other grades are black.

    Best regards
    DarrenR

  7. #7
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    Haven't yet taken pics but will have them up this weekend. I have yet to finish the unit and also doing the radio sectio which also fel top bits when the console came out

    Bloody fiddly job and not something I have patience for.

    Trav

  8. #8
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    make me one aswell trav
    2004 Black Range Rover L322 Diesel

  9. #9
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    Melbourne
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    I bought an afermarket one for my classic Rangie a few years ago. There were fibreglass and aluminium ones available. I got the fibreglass one as it was in stock. It's strong enough for the 4 y/o to climb over from the back to the front. But it did cost about $500.

    Another option to plywood, would be to make one out of aluminium or tin. Use straight panels with a right angle bend at the end, where you screw or pop rivet the next panel. Then use contact adhesive to glue 5mm closed cell foam on top and then glue on a layer or vinyl (or leather). The tin or alloy box will be strong, lighter that ply and deform, rather than splinter in an accident. Use the original lid if it matches your new choice in vinyl / leather.



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