The cheapest![]()
You asked how to start it not long ago, you can't of screwed a bar yet![]()
Going bigger.....smaller??
For the chainsaw users here - which would you buy out of these 3:
Genuine Husky
Oregon Power Match +
Oregon PRO-LITE
The cheapest![]()
You asked how to start it not long ago, you can't of screwed a bar yet![]()
Going bigger.....smaller??
i repair stihl chainsaws daily, the only thing wrong with them is the use of inferior chain bars and using engine oil as bar lube!!!
the oe bars are shaped/tapered down to a nice noise radius at the end, with a tip roller on the smaller 14/12'' bars.
the problems with the aftermarket bars our stores buy are the shape at the nose is all wrong causing the chain to wear badly and walk of cutts. and the bar oil hole is drilled to big and dosnt have a ''well'' in the slot to catch the lube, instead it all falls out the back onto the clutch! dosnt stop the clutch from working just makes alot of smoke, also you really want the lube to be on the chain not the clutch..
so ide buy the same spares for the same machine, their designed like that for a reason.
cheers phil
if it's a husky saw get the husky bar.
Hi Ben
If you dont need the length go short.Big saws with small bars perform REALLY well.
Ive been buying the power match bars,mainly because thats all thats available locally.
They have all been very good.
Phil,can you do good prices on bars/chains etc????Would rather support a member than anybody else.
Andrew
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I would only add that its more important to --
Keep the chain sharp
keep the bar oil flowing - stop and rev motor untill you see oil getting thrown off the end of the bar if you are cutting big logs.
Only then, will what brand you bought start to matter![]()
Phil business mustn;t be to good, but then in suburbia is there a high demand for chainsaws. Because stihls don't need much repairing,
Mines a stihl , have had it for 4 1/2 years now, 18" bar, a good all round saw, especially for pruning the maccas. Have had not any trouble with it, always starts second pull and so on.when the blades sharp its like a hot knife thorugh butter. Maintenace is the key as well as good bar oil. clean filter, plug and fuel.
borrowed one years ago from a mate of mine, is was a suburban brand red thing, POS cold never start it, and no power.
those brands mentioned I haven't seen used on any of the farms around here, so I guess they can't be any good.
john
stihls never need repairing, the only bits i touch are the chain/bars and clutch sprocket. all because our lazy customers wont refill the bar lube in the saw! this roots everything! ohh and they like to cut through things like CEMENT and DIRTbut then in suburbia is there a high demand for chainsaws. Because stihls don't need much repairing,
our saws get hired out usually on thurs.fri and sat's bloody weekend worriers!
as for stihl, ive done 3 training corses now and they are really informative but i never need to use any of it cos the equipment is top notch!
oh and stils new lines of saws are a 2stroke 4 strokequite a simple idea. its a 4 stroke that runs on 2 stroke mix and has no wet sump so it can be opperated at any angle! only a few grams heavyer than the out going models and has 3times better emmishions..
cheers phil
1st thing, If you use Stihl's for commercial work as we do on the Golf Course, they do wear out and if you dont mix the fuel properly and use good fresh fuel it stuffs them fairly quickly.
Just replaced rings and pistons in one of the saws as one of the guys (I THINK) forgot to put oil in the fuel, made short work of it.
Another problem Ive been having lately with the Sthil blowers is Carbi Diaphrams, and they are just not available in oz at the moment, looks just like a normal walbro carbi but is just different enough not to fit any of the common diaphrams.
As far as bars are concerned, as soon as it is pushing through a log, balance doesnt have anything to do with it, you are better to have the extra reach if thats the only reason your changing the bar but if you still want an 18" bar I wouldnt go for Oregon unless that was all you could get as they wear quickly and burr more and I have had a couple of end rollers fail on them and that can make a mess but I cant completely blame the brand as the guys are not that noce to the saws, I would stick with Husky for the same reasons Discowhite stated.
Just to add some other improtant notes to add for maintenance:
1.Keep you bar dressed, take the burr off the edge of the bar.
2.use compressed air to clean out around the clutch after every use and never store them dirty as it all hardens and then you have trouble.
3.I normally run the saws and 2 stroke gear at 40:1, mainly as the guys mix it up and it normally ends up closer to 50:1 when they put enough oil in for 5 litres and then put 7 in the tin it is also better to have them running a little oil rich rather than running them lean but you can get carbon buildup if it's too rich and emissions wont be spot on.
4.Keep chains sharp and followers filed down to tooth height for hard woods and below tooth hight for soft, and also try a chisel cut chain in green hard wood, they stay sharper longer and cut heaps quicker but dont cut as straight.
Last edited by mcrover; 6th May 2007 at 12:52 PM.
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