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Thread: Chainsaw Operator's course

  1. #1
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    Chainsaw Operator's course

    I did a Chainsaw Course last weekend.
    I've used a chainsaw ( infrequently ) for years but found this course very useful. How to properly sharpen the chain, maintain the saw. All the different cuts and how to assess the stresses in a fallen log etc etc ..... there's really quite a lot in it. Without even starting on the safety aspects ...

    For those infrequent/casual chainsaw users out there - if you get a chance to go on one I'd highly recommend it.

    ( I only say that coz eveyone who need to use a chainsaw as part of their job or CFA /SES must do the course anyway )
    Last edited by waynep; 1st June 2007 at 08:54 AM.

  2. #2
    mcrover Guest
    Yeah and on the weekend we will teach you how to use your chainsaw properly.

    We have to do those courses and have heard the instructors say some stupid things, e.g. you cant kneel down to cut a log on the ground you have to bend over was one of them and another told me there was no reason you should have to dress the bar on your saw and also did a chisle cut sharpen on a std chain to cut pine.

    It is deffinatly worth it for the safety aspect for someone who hasnt worked with a saw before it should be a must but you will only learn the good stuff off the pro's, arborists and farmers.

    Had one bloke drop a branch on his own car doing a demo on how to get a hanger out of a tree safely, it nearly killed him and he was the instructor.

    Im not a professional chainsaw operator but I have used them more than the average bloke and I work on them all the time and I have done a couple of these courses but there are some bodgys out there to look out for so if considering a course check out if they are arborists or the like and even pay a little more to do a good one.

    It would be like doing a 4wding course with road runner driving school, they may know the theory but not the practical.

    Im not having a go at your course Wayne, just a warning to other people if they are looking at doing one.

  3. #3
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    Mc it was an Arborist company who ran my course - would agree with that.
    My bullsh**t detector is pretty good and this guy seemed to have none of that and lot of practical experience behind him.

    Oh and I'd be too embarassed to bring my tiny saw to Sheepyard.
    Last edited by waynep; 1st June 2007 at 01:49 PM.

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by waynep View Post
    Mc it was an Arborist company who ran my course - would agree with that.
    My bullsh**t detector is pretty good and this guy seemed to have none of that and lot of practical experience behind him.

    Oh and I'd be too embarassed to bring my tiny saw to Sheepyard.
    Its not the size that counts Wayne, its what u do with it.................
    Cheers Dean.

  5. #5
    mcrover Guest
    Ive got a wide selection to choose from, 3 sthils, 18", 20" and 24" and 1 Shindawa 20" to choose from oh and a 12" pole saw which extends to 6m reach.

    It's good that it was a well run course there is nothing worse than forking out your hard earned on a crap course.

    Small saws are great for limbing work, big saws are to cumbersom and can be dangerous in some situations limbing fallen trees.

    So dont be imbarrised buy only having a um short bar lol.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by mcrover View Post
    Ive got a wide selection to choose from, 3 sthils, 18", 20" and 24" and 1 Shindawa 20" to choose from oh and a 12" pole saw which extends to 6m reach.

    It's good that it was a well run course there is nothing worse than forking out your hard earned on a crap course.

    Small saws are great for limbing work, big saws are to cumbersom and can be dangerous in some situations limbing fallen trees.

    So dont be imbarrised buy only having a um short bar lol.

    bring the biggest saw you have

    we'll need it
    thanks
    130's rule

  7. #7
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    I agree I did one last month and didn't know that every time you take the saw apart you should turn the main bar the chain runs along around the other way for maximum longengevity and even ware on the bar.

    Very useful course.
    Last edited by Loaded; 4th June 2007 at 05:45 PM.

  8. #8
    mcrover Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by hiline View Post
    bring the biggest saw you have

    we'll need it
    thanks
    No worries Ray will do.

  9. #9
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    Did they show you the PREFERED way of starting a saw??????
    I refuse to do it their way,no way an I cuddleing a chainsaw handle with my balls,a misfire and you will have tears and blueballs!!!! Did it to pass the course,havent done it since.All right for a baby saw,not nice on a bigger saw.
    Im naughty,still practice the drop start!!!!!
    I agree with the others,if you use a saw,the nationally rated accreditation course is well worth doing.We have only done the basic course,the shire wont pay the $$$$ to put any of us through the tree fallers course.I have been hasseling them for ages to get a fallers ticket as its illegal for any of us to drop a tree,no workers comp if anything goes pearshape!!!! I refuse to do it,the saftey rep/leading hand was dropping trees the other day no chaps no ticket and blunt saw,FLUCKING JOKE!!!!
    Ive dropped heaps of trees,its scary stuff,would like to to a course to learn properly.I had the benefit of a mate who worked for a proffesional tree feller,learnt a fair bit from watching the old bugger drop trees and talking to him.If you are old in the tree game you are pretty good!!!!
    Andrew
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  10. #10
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    I did a chainsaw level one course in 2004 at uni.

    The instructor was an ex RAAF guy who was the SES commander (or whatever they call them) in Toowoomba. The guy that gets to drive around in the SES Landcruiser. He was slow and meticulous but didn't appear to bull****. I learnt a lot.

    I also did 'small engine repair' (dam pumps and generators etc) and 'vehicle systems' (brakes, electrics etc). The three courses made up one uni course called 'Rural Skills'.
    I got a 7 for that one I think everyone got a 6 or 7

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