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Thread: Baby is Home

  1. #1
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    Baby is Home

    Well “Baby” the series 1 88" is home – a quite uneventful trip – the Freelander is a good tow vehicle.



    I am pretty happy with what I have got. The engine runs well though the clutch feels a bit low so might need to be replaced – gearbox and engine oil is all nice and clean. The body is rough but nothing a hammer and some body filler won’t fix in the short term. There is plenty of surface rust but none of the stuff that makes holes. It has no brakes but the handbrake is superb. The car has been used over rough ground with both chassis X members around the gearbox bashed in severely. Likewise both front springs have sagged and punched holes in the chassis – not good but repairable.

    Work list in order, will be brakes, new front springs (I might do the lot), chassis welding, replace tie rod ends, new clutch and then electrics. Nothing too hard. Then rego and drive, drive, drive.

    So – can you put parabolic springs in a series 1 and if so where do I get them and how much? I had the same sagging problem in my first series 1 and could not springs so had them made from the specs in the workshop manual. If parabolics are not viable can you get new springs already made up or will I have to get them specially made like I did last time. I can get everything else I am likely to initially need locally.

    So much to do – so little time


    Garry
    Last edited by 101RRS; 3rd January 2017 at 06:10 PM.
    REMLR 243

    2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
    1977 FC 101
    1976 Jaguar XJ12C
    1973 Haflinger AP700
    1971 Jaguar V12 E-Type Series 3 Roadster
    1957 Series 1 88"
    1957 Series 1 88" Station Wagon

  2. #2
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    G'day All, Well stop talking about it and get out there and get into it , I'd bet it's bleedin cold down your way anyway that will keep you off the streets for some time cheers Dennis

  3. #3
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    [damn,,,]


    nice....
    "How long since you've visited The Good Oil?"

    '93 V8 Rossi
    '97 to '07. sold.
    '01 V8 D2
    '06 to 10. written off.
    '03 4.6 V8 HSE D2a with Tornado ECM
    '10 to '21
    '16.5 RRS SDV8
    '21 to Infinity and Beyond!


    1988 Isuzu Bus. V10 15L NA Diesel
    Home is where you park it..

    [IMG][/IMG]

  4. #4
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    A freebie towing that is a very rare sight

    looks good
    Series 11A ex Air Force
    1995 ES Discovery TDI


    RIP 2006 Discovery 3
    RIP 2004 V8 Discovery
    RIP 95 Discovery TDI

    RIP 1999 Freelander
    RIP 1978 EX Army FFR

  5. #5
    JDNSW's Avatar
    JDNSW is offline RoverLord Silver Subscriber
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    Quote Originally Posted by garrycol View Post
    ...........

    I am pretty happy with what I have got. The engine runs well though the clutch feels a bit low so might need to be replaced – gearbox and engine oil is all nice and clean. The body is rough but nothing a hammer and some body filler won’t fix in the short term. There is plenty of surface rust but none of the stuff that makes holes. It has no brakes but the handbrake is superb. The car has been used over rough ground with both chassis X members around the gearbox bashed in severely. Likewise both front springs have sagged and punched holes in the chassis – not good but repairable.

    Work list in order, will be brakes, new front springs (I might do the lot), chassis welding, replace tie rod ends, new clutch and then electrics. Nothing too hard. Then rego and drive, drive, drive.

    So – can you put parabolic springs in a series 1 and if so where do I get them and how much? I had the same sagging problem in my first series 1 and could not springs so had them made from the specs in the workshop manual. If parabolics are not viable can you get new springs already made up or will I have to get them specially made like I did last time. I can get everything else I am likely to initially need locally.

    ..........


    Garry
    Springs on 88 Series 1 are the same as Series 2/3, so I don't see why they can't be replaced by parabolics. Fit the spring manufacturer's recommended shock absorbers.

    Check the clutch linkage before replacing the clutch itself, particularly the pin that carries torque from the pedal shaft to the release fork shaft - these have been known to wear or break, and the holes it goes through may have elongated.

    John
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by JDNSW View Post

    Check the clutch linkage before replacing the clutch itself, particularly the pin that carries torque from the pedal shaft to the release fork shaft - these have been known to wear or break, and the holes it goes through may have elongated.

    John
    Defanatly the pin, my Old Girl has worn throught that pin twice. I might know of a ute style roof to throw on it if new canvas is too expensive. I've got both a station wagon and ute hard top roofs for the Old Girl.

    Cheers Easo

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