Series I Info

**Guru036** · 13th July 2007, 09:01 AM

G'day all.

I have just purchased as Series I Landy which I'm going to rebuild. I bought it off ebay

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI....8843&rd=1&rd=1

Now From what I can tell it is quite original. From the info I can find on the net about the chassis number it suggests it is a 1956 model and one of the last of the 107" (which it mesaures between the wheels). It also has the bolt in the wing(near the wheel arch) where it should be on a 107". One thing that is different is the front radiator panel, which is the 109" type that is steel and has one single hole and not 4 like it whould be on a 107". other thing that is different is it's fixed section in the door tops is glass like a 109" but should be plastic for a 107" But maybe that has to do with the change over time?? Now the thing I can't seem to work out is if the engine is the original or not. any idea's where I could find that out??

Engine Number is 111714910

Thanks

**JDNSW** · 13th July 2007, 12:33 PM

I'm afraid it is not quite as original as it looks! For a start, it has a late Series 2a/3 steering wheel, and hence steering box (The steering wheel fitting is different), a fully floating axle (probably off a Series 2/2a, with a wider track - and the front axle may also be a ringin), the carburetter is not original, probably Holden, as is the aircleaner. The engine looks to be the right type for the model, have a look at http://www.fourfold.org/LR_FAQ/Serie...bers.type.html

The easiest way of checking if it is a 107 or 109 is simply to measure the wheelbase between the hubcaps with the steering straight ahead.

As far as I know none of the Series 1s had glass in the door windows, but the original perspex would certainly need to have been replaced by now, and glass has a lot of advantages apart from its mass.

It looks like a lot of work needed for restoration, but it also looks as if there is a reasonable base to start with.

John

**101RRS** · 13th July 2007, 12:39 PM

Well you learn something new everyday - I thought all series 1s were either 80/86/88 in swb but all lwb were 109s with the exception of the lwb station wagon which was 107".

Which 2 litre engine is in yours - the early one with the close bores or the later one with the bores a little further apart. My 57 88 has glass in the doors.

Good luck with your find and the work ahead - I am just about to start on my 88.

Garry

**isuzurover** · 13th July 2007, 12:59 PM

Good luck with the rebuild. Looks like a good truck. The 107" utes are my favourite S1, and IMO probably the most capable offroad (further inboard rear springs mean better wheel travel - and the best wheelbase of all the S1s).

Unless you are rebuilding it for show, the updated axles and steering (if they have been done properly) are probably a good thing.

**JDNSW** · 13th July 2007, 01:23 PM

Originally Posted by garrycol

Well you learn something new everyday - I thought all series 1s were either 80/86/88 in swb but all lwb were 109s with the exception of the lwb station wagon which was 107".
........

The 107 wheelbase was introduced at the same time (1953) as the 86, and was changed to 109 at the same time as the 86 went to 88 (August 1956) except for the station wagon, which used a different chassis - it remained in production (and was not available in diesel) until the S2 109 wagon became available six months after the other Series 2s (1958).

John

**Guru036** · 13th July 2007, 05:00 PM

Originally Posted by JDNSW

I'm afraid it is not quite as original as it looks! For a start, it has a late Series 2a/3 steering wheel, and hence steering box (The steering wheel fitting is different), a fully floating axle (probably off a Series 2/2a, with a wider track - and the front axle may also be a ringin), the carburetter is not original, probably Holden, as is the aircleaner. The engine looks to be the right type for the model, have a look at

Well yes I'm aware of the steering and carby, but I figure it's easier to fid a carby to suit the engine if it's correct rather than trying to find a complete engine. Steering is something I will keep my eye on. Full floating rear axles came in with the 109" SI, this is another reason I think it should be a 109" but it measures 107". Pretty sure it's still narrow track, do you know what the measurements should be??

As far as I know none of the Series 1s had glass in the door windows, but the original perspex would certainly need to have been replaced by now, and glass has a lot of advantages apart from its mass.
John

Yeah they did have glass on the 88/109 SI's just for the fixed piece on the door tops.

I love the 107's, They look cool, and very practical. and they are the best (by design) A Series I can get

**Guru036** · 13th July 2007, 05:03 PM

believe the motor is the "spread bore" as oil filter is on the right hand side of the block

**Guru036** · 15th July 2007, 07:53 PM

Okay, worked out a few more bits and pieces.

JDNSW - your right, not as original as I thought. Diffs are out of a Series IIA or III as the front diff steering arms come up from under the swivel (suppose to come down from the top from what I know).

Question: are the spring mounts on the diffs the same for Series I and other Series's? or did they need the spring perch's moved to fit the other diffs??

Also are the brakes on a 107/109 (11" drums) the same as on the Series IIA and III's ??

Also still trying to figure out if engine is original or just the right type for that year??

So what to do with it... I might see whats around to make it original, (Steering box and diffs). Or I might rebuild it more or less as is as an example of what has kept this 51 year old landy going. Any Other ide'as??

**Disco300Tdi** · 15th July 2007, 08:05 PM

Hey Guru...What John (JDNSW) doesn't know isn't worth knowing

Be careful....as you are the one waiting for answers

**JDNSW** · 15th July 2007, 08:34 PM

Originally Posted by Guru036

Okay, worked out a few more bits and pieces.

JDNSW - your right, not as original as I thought. Diffs are out of a Series IIA or III as the front diff steering arms come up from under the swivel (suppose to come down from the top from what I know).

Question: are the spring mounts on the diffs the same for Series I and other Series's? or did they need the spring perch's moved to fit the other diffs??

Also are the brakes on a 107/109 (11" drums) the same as on the Series IIA and III's ??

Also still trying to figure out if engine is original or just the right type for that year??

So what to do with it... I might see whats around to make it original, (Steering box and diffs). Or I might rebuild it more or less as is as an example of what has kept this 51 year old landy going. Any Other ide'as??

Spring perches at the front are the same - back 107/109 had the springs at the same spacing as the front - the sideways outriggers only came with Series 2. It may have had the spring perches changed or the more likely fitted with a swb axle with the narrower spacing.

The steering arms as you say are the later type - but all swivels back to 1954 can be converted to the later type, so that is not diagnostic! I can't locate a figure for the track of the Series 1, but Series 2/2a/3 is 1.31m and I know that Series 1 is about 50mm narrower (assuming standard wheels).

Brakes were 11" on all lwb, front stayed the same right through from S1 to S3 (except for six and V8 which were wider but otherwise the same - and all went to this in late S3) but the rear brakes changed from S2 to S2a - the earlier ones had a single adjuster opposite the wheel cylinder, like the handbrake, the later ones had a separate adjuster for each shoe.

Steering box remained the same late Series 1 to Series 2a suffix 'B' (about 1963) so there should be a few available. The problem is the earlier steering wheels tend to deteriorate and good specimens are scarce as hen's teeth.

The full floating axles are a definite improvement on the semifloating, but if they are the genuine S1 variant (I think only fitted to 1958 wagons as standard, but optional from about 1956) the shafts are virtually unobtainable, although later shafts can be used by converting a pair of drive flanges to spacers to allow the use of the longer shafts. The semifloating shafts are not as rare, but the wheel bearing is likely to need replacing.
Apart from the shafts nothing else is specific to (late) S1 about the axles except for the housing itself. (There will be detail differences but everything is interchangeable)

I would be inclined to restore it as well as you can - using original fittings where you can find them, but not being too pedantic about it. You can always fit the genuine part later if you come across one. However, I would avoid updating it unnecessarily!

It is probably worth getting a parts book if you can locate one, not only does it identify which parts are identical to later parts, but it shows how bits go together better than the workshop manual (which of course you need as well).

Have fun!

John

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