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Nm'S
a round bale of silage is up to $88 down here, almost double last years rates. Haven;t checked the bale prices but they would be the same.
back to stevos trailer, had to take a photo or too of how to stop the bugger tipping,
big cable tie
http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w...ePhotos270.jpg
this trailer is 3 years old see the thickness of the rail.
http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w...ePhotos271.jpg
john
Yea, grass catcher would make it last, thats why you dont use one:DQuote:
Originally Posted by Blknight.aus
I work on them every day this B&S crap lol.
I prefer my bigger mowers but I do have 1 ride on and plenty of other small engined equipment.
10w 30 oil is what you want to use and 50hr intervals.
Keep everything lubed and filter clean, Baldwins will have a cross reference, if you can PM me with the B&S number I can look it up on monday.
Is it a the presure fed crank or splash fed, the presure fed will also have an oil filter and you can get them from Baldwins aswell.
The only other filter is the fuel filter.
For storage between cuts, turn the fuel tap off and then run it out of fuel.
This drops the float and lifts the needle off the seat so when you go to start it the needle isnt stuck to the seat and you dont get sludge buildup in the fuel bowl.
As everyone else has said, keep the air cleaner clean and keep the pre filter lightly oiled.
As far as belts go, a company called BSC who own the aussie desributor ship for special belts that are specifically designed for use on rideons and the like.
I cant think of the brand off hand but they are built differently and out of stuff like Kevlar and stuff like that.
There is an outlet near me in Dandenong and I could probably find out if there is a stockist in Tassie.
Hi Stevo
Visit the US B/S website,all the info you need
Andrew
:D Well
Guys, n Girls. Thanks for all your advice.
I started the day by warming the ol B & S up and then draining the sump. ****, No one warned me that the friggin oil was going to go everywhere xcept in the catch bowel eh! (Sounding like a true Queenslander now ):D
Put 1300 ml of the nice new sae 30 Mrs brought from the stealer in the sump then drove to around for a few hours carting stuff every where.
The other thing I noticed was the "run in oil" was absolutley loaded with metal particles. Now I'm a tool maker by trade n this smaks of something stuck together in china with poor quality steels, appaling tollerances and crap assembly methods and FA QC.:( However i might be completely rong.:p
Sorted a way to jack it on its side to drain the sump for the second time and fitted a new filter. Who was the ****in tosser that designed an engine with a tapered steel plug in an aluminium casting?????? ******* :wasntme:
mcrover, I'll pm u the number of the filter,ts on the side of the box. I'll buy a couple and leave them on the shelf. One question, SAE 30 strikes me as being a bit thin for an aircoooled engine 10 degrees south of the equator. What do u think?
John, Cool. Same trailer. Damn handy gadget. I'll cut out n bend up a couple of twist locks for the tailgate shortly. The drawbar assembly I'll probably completely replace with a peice of 75 x 50 RHS with a coupling on it. Still rekon its the best $180 I've spent for a while.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/
Cheers,
a heap of small fine particals in the inital run in oil is fairly normal thats why you do the initial run in...
on the note of oil changes, next oil change you might want to look into fitting a ballcock valve to the drain and then capping the end when it comes time to drain it again, remove the cap, attach hose and drain oil, Easy neat and clean.
If you dont like that Idea I have a GJ kit of magnet insert plugs and if you get me the size of the one in yourse If i have that size left I'll send you one. (its an old well ratted kit so theres no landrover size plugs left just really small and freaking huge)
Deffinatly not unusual for the run in oil to have metal in it, I have been told by manufacturers that it is from wearing in parts as well as the oil carrying out machined metals that have got into places they cant clean out properly.Quote:
Originally Posted by Stevo_62
In your operators manual there should be a chart of what oils for what temperatures, if not I could look it up in my library at work as long as you have the model number of the engine it shouldnt be a problem.
Screw a barbed fitting into the sump port and then another at the end of a short hose and then cap it off.
This is used on a lot of earth moving equipment (CAT, Vermeer and Bobcat) and Ive used it on some machines.
The thread should be on an angle to allow for drainage but it can be a pain when they are bolted down to a plate.
Sometimes there is another pulg underneith that goes straight up into the sump, normally in the later B&S they ate 12mm allen key grubscrew as the plug.