Thread: Technical Assistance Please

clutch slave has siezed in place and its holding the clutch in the disengaged position OR the throwout bearing has done the same thing.


how did the clutch pedal feel, like the thing was sinking lower and lower with each press or like it was normal all the time? if it felt normal all the time check the fluid level in the slave cylinder.

Crack the bleed nipple and if the thing spurts fluid at you then the problem is on the master cylinder should that not happen nip it up and then carefully back off the bolts holding the clutch slave in that will give you more of an idea. if it springs free then its the slave giving you the problem for one reason or another. IF neither of those things happen then its the mechanics inside the bell housing thats holding it off.

this is also assuming that it hasnt done something like torn the drive splines out of the friction plate and it just hasnt gotten round to throwing fragments around yet.

Clutch pedal felt normal definate actuation - definately had drive when stopped. no odd noises. stopped about 30 minutes.

Not to dispute BK at all, but here's a story about clutches, sisters, and what they do to elder brothers: Sister, on leaving for overseas trip says to me 'You can drive my car whilst I'm away'. Get in car first time ( A little astra) and head into the city for a drink one night. No problems or untoward noises. After 20mins normal driving, metro area, some signs slipping clutch, and only 1000 metres later, no clutch. Tow home and investigate, and retreive a wafer thin clutch plate from the vehicle. Whether or not she knew the clutch was on it's way out is debatable - the fact was in 20 minutes a decent feeling clutch died.

I strongly suspect the county's has too. Highly possible that the previous owner didn't recognise it either.

Since the clutch pedal is apparantly returning to normal position, I don't think you have much choice but to seperate the gearbox and have a look at the clutch.

Just to make you feel better about giving the new owner the news - I once went along and inspected a car for sale for a work collegue. Decent car, reco engine, a bit pricey but with the fresh engine, worth it. Collegue picks car up next day, drives to work - halfway there fuel line pops off carby and car goes up in flames.

A busted clutch is way better than a burnt car.

If it is a 5 speed with LT230, and you are not certain it is the clutch (no telltale smell etc) another possible cause of drive loss is the splines in the LT230 input gear.

Originally Posted by Bush65

If it is a 5 speed with LT230, and you are not certain it is the clutch (no telltale smell etc) another possible cause of drive loss is the splines in the LT230 input gear.

x 2

It is done dusted and delivered, but please analyse symptons and let me know your theroies.
AS soon as I get backI will give a full analysis and outcome so all will know what can happen without warning.
I doubt anyone will get it as it was somewhat heat related.

Clutch plate is cactus that's how they go when they're simply worn out

Ive never seen a genuine suzi clutch let go with that little warning... not to say it cant happen Ive seen it in plenty of hairdressers cars. But usually the suzi lets you know by slipping 4th at the bottom end of the rev band and the initial "spring" of the top 1/3 of pedal travel will become more linier.