auto in discovery

It is a pleasant change to drive an auto , remember it is the vehicle for the royals
As the spanner twirler said on steep hills up and down just lock it in a gear so it doesn;t 'hunt' for one'.
And for repairs, in any event L/R's aren;t cheap repairs, so it makes no difference whether you drive an auto or a manual. ( my opinion)
Should have done a poll on this, so far everyone has been positive, except the spanner man.

Treads, for what its worth, I would definately go a manual for towing a couple of nags, around you way with the odd hill, even heading up to glenn the auto box may not like it,
as a suggestion why not a defender, they are really agricultural looking and look like they should tow a horse maybe a lot better than a suit wearing disco owner!

there is a 2 door trayback at Trevan Ford Ballina, for 10,950, 240k on clock local owner ( I put the details in the marketplace a few weeks ago.it was still there last week)


john

Quote:

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Originally Posted by JohnE

It is a pleasant change to drive an auto , remember it is the vehicle for the royals
As the spanner twirler said on steep hills up and down just lock it in a gear so it doesn;t 'hunt' for one'.
And for repairs, in any event L/R's aren;t cheap repairs, so it makes no difference whether you drive an auto or a manual. ( my opinion)
Should have done a poll on this, so far everyone has been positive, except the spanner man.

Treads, for what its worth, I would definately go a manual for towing a couple of nags, around you way with the odd hill, even heading up to glenn the auto box may not like it,
as a suggestion why not a defender, they are really agricultural looking and look like they should tow a horse maybe a lot better than a suit wearing disco owner!

there is a 2 door trayback at Trevan Ford Ballina, for 10,950, 240k on clock local owner ( I put the details in the marketplace a few weeks ago.it was still there last week)
john

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Thanks for the replies

JohnE, I have thought about a defender. I've driven a mates' wagon towing a big boat and didn't have any issues; and I've taken a single cab RFS striker in some pretty extreme places. I loved both but would have to choose a wagon for kids.

After driving a disco though, it's hard to justify the sparse cabin, seats, etc. in a fender especially when the GF has been in both :wasntme:

So back to my questions:
1) diference in fuel consumption figures between the two? anyone got average figures for touring and towing with each?
2) does the auto box 'run away' even locked in 1st low?

I really appreciate your veiws and time in discussing this, it will definitely form the basis of my decision

Quote:

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Originally Posted by DiscoDan

97 TDi Auto, requires rebuild lowest quote $2400 highest $4000

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ZF themselves do a changeover gearbox for a lot less than $4000, closer to the $2400 actually. It might be worth contacting them if you can.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Blknight.aus

I'll pick the manual...

they arent as easy to do it with as the autos but..
.

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Having done a fair bit of towing with auto 300Tdi Discos and V8 Rangies - and a little towing with manual diesel LRs, I'd take the auto any day.

The manual can be a mongrel to get going on a slope unless you slip the clutch a fair bit or, alternatively, engage low range and learn how to change from low to high on the move. :(

Add to that the much nicer driving experience of an auto in traffic. :)

So if I spend $13-15k it looks like I can get a Td5. I just keep hearing horror stories of them blowing up and costing half that again to fix :eek:
I'm guessing though that the auto box is well and truly sorted?
What year models are able to have the CDL kit installed?
Is fuel consumption much different to the 300Tdi?

Cheers

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Treads

So if I spend $13-15k it looks like I can get a Td5. I just keep hearing horror stories of them blowing up and costing half that again to fix :eek:
I'm guessing though that the auto box is well and truly sorted?
What year models are able to have the CDL kit installed?
Is fuel consumption much different to the 300Tdi?

Cheers

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Any td5 had for 13-15k must be knackered a good 300tdi will cost 13k or there abouts.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by loanrangie

Any td5 had for 13-15k must be knackered a good 300tdi will cost 13k or there abouts.

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Seen quite afew priced around there with reasonable kays, aside from being a TD5 there is no reason they'll be any more knackered than the rest

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Treads

So back to my questions:
1) diference in fuel consumption figures between the two? anyone got average figures for touring and towing with each?
2) does the auto box 'run away' even locked in 1st low?

I really appreciate your veiws and time in discussing this, it will definitely form the basis of my decision

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Ok. Fuel consumption is a wierdo one so speaking from a pure mechanical point of view and temporarily negating my bias

A perfectly driven manual will get better economy over the auto due to pumping losses and the TC... However in reality the auto is in a better position to be in the correct gear at the correct time allwoing to keep the engine in the sweet spot and maintain economy so in the city and for hill work your infront with the auto unless you REALLY REALLY know you rig. On the open highway tho as the manual doesnt have the pump to run it will have a marginal advantage there under most circumstances.

actual figures that you get from both camps are going to be all over the shop. Mine occasionally seem absurdly low but then I strive for economy when i can I sit on 80 on main highways, drive during the morning and evening when its cooler, leave the aircon off, no roof racks the works Ive even been known to camp and wait for the head wind to die out. other blokes are more interested in whats there than whats on the way so they're happier to keep it nailed and pull 2t vans up slopes at 110 and let the fuel pump firehose their dieso into the donk and out the tailpipe.

as to the running away thing... thats yes and no....

If you give it the opotrunity to it will run away on you.. theres 3 techniques I know of that prevent that from happening and they all come down to driver experience and skill.

the short versions...

1. notching the handbrake on a bit
2. left footing the brakes and running the engine up to the TC'd fluid coupling point then balancing both pedals to maintain your descent.
3. inching the wheels just past the point of no return, stopping selecting reverse (or f1st if your coming down backwards) and then using the loud pedal to work the engine via the TC against the transmission which will be trying to wind the engine over the wrong way.

each has its place in the repitiour of the auto drivers offroading book of tricks for various reasons but what you use when is the dark art of offroading autos down big hills.

hope some of that helps.