Thread: No more Salisburys..

Originally Posted by rick130

P38 style rear end has been in the 130 since they changed the 110, when was it ? '03 ?.

Search for the threads on here with Defender/P38 style rear end problems......as Tusker can attest, there's been one or two......

BTW, a little work and a Sals has the same clearance (or near enough) as a Rover style diff with out any strength issues

Yeah add some portals?

When something is that big, they dont normally get smaller in a hurry.

What is the size difference anyway as far as ground clearence goes?

I know from experience that what ruts I clear, 110's and 130's hit a lot of the time and from looking at them they look huge but Ive never put a tape measure on them.

Originally Posted by mcrover

Yeah add some portals?

When something is that big, they dont normally get smaller in a hurry.

What is the size difference anyway as far as ground clearence goes?

I know from experience that what ruts I clear, 110's and 130's hit a lot of the time and from looking at them they look huge but Ive never put a tape measure on them.

there is so much excess cast steel at the bottom, it's easy to hack it off and clean up. Use a heavy duty diff cover and the crown wheel is protected if it's ever dropped on a rock and all the leaks are fixed, too. (everyone I know that has just chopped the bottom off the sals ends up with the cover weeping)
Doing what I've done here doesn't affect wall thickness at all, just removes the excess.





There really isn't a limit either. Some of the butcher jobs I've seen on Pirate on D60's include turning down the crown wheel, they have cut so much off the bottom (and yes, you need to plate the entire diff bottom after doing this. Big ? over long term integrity, too, but fine for a play only rig)

Originally Posted by rick130

there is so much excess cast steel at the bottom, it's easy to hack it off and clean up. Use a heavy duty diff cover and the crown wheel is protected if it's ever dropped on a rock and all the leaks are fixed, too. (everyone I know that has just chopped the bottom off the sals ends up with the cover weeping)
Doing what I've done here doesn't affect wall thickness at all, just removes the excess.





There really isn't a limit either. Some of the butcher jobs I've seen on Pirate on D60's include turning down the crown wheel, they have cut so much off the bottom (and yes, you need to plate the entire diff bottom after doing this. Big ? over long term integrity, too, but fine for a play only rig)

looks good, got any more pics of your modded diff?

Originally Posted by cal415

looks good, got any more pics of your modded diff?

naa, sorry.

there's an old post on what I did here http://www.aulro.com/afvb/technical-...brazilian.html

there's approx. 18-19mm lopped off the bottom of the diff. IIRC It's about 5-7mm lower than the front still.

Broken diffs.... In my experience, broken diffs are usually caused by poor driving technique. Typically sudden shock loading (dumping clutch, etc...) or heavy gunning of the throttle. It's also the main cause of failures in the rest of the drive train.

As for the strength of the casing itself... Other than the obvious one of smacking it into rocks, overloading and heavy landings are the other main causes of damage. All of which can and should be avoided.

M

Originally Posted by camel_landy

Broken diffs.... In my experience, broken diffs are usually caused by poor driving technique. Typically sudden shock loading (dumping clutch, etc...) or heavy gunning of the throttle. It's also the main cause of failures in the rest of the drive train.

As for the strength of the casing itself... Other than the obvious one of smacking it into rocks, overloading and heavy landings are the other main causes of damage. All of which can and should be avoided.

M

Agree, but that's not the problem with the P38a. I'm on my 3rd CW&P in 105,000 kms. They've never failed, just gone noisy, even vibrating under load. The crown wheel teeth flex under load, & microscopic cracks develop. The P38a is just not up to the job.

My car has spent most of its kms on the highway, in 5th gear, btw. If it was shockloads caused by rockhopping that was the problem, I'd expect other driveline breakages. But that's not the case. e.g. my front diff had about 400,000 kms on it before it needed attention.

So I'm curious if there any changes in the "new" 130 rear diff.

Regards
Max P

Originally Posted by Tusker

Agree, but that's not the problem with the P38a. I'm on my 3rd CW&P in 105,000 kms. They've never failed, just gone noisy, even vibrating under load. The crown wheel teeth flex under load, & microscopic cracks develop. The P38a is just not up to the job.

My car has spent most of its kms on the highway, in 5th gear, btw. If it was shockloads caused by rockhopping that was the problem, I'd expect other driveline breakages. But that's not the case. e.g. my front diff had about 400,000 kms on it before it needed attention.

So I'm curious if there any changes in the "new" 130 rear diff.

Regards
Max P

Max P,

There are some changes to the 'new' rear diffs, they are actually WORSE. Some are getting noisy at less than 100km. 100KM!!!

JC

Originally Posted by justinc

Max P,

There are some changes to the 'new' rear diffs, they are actually WORSE. Some are getting noisy at less than 100km. 100KM!!!

JC

My 2006 Defender - rear diff replaced within the first six months - somewhere around 20,000K - it now has 41,000K - and the noise is coming back.