roll bars, are in your shopping list?

Yes I agree with the pillar is weak here are two options for the Defender wagon and I think that they are easy to make, specially the internal cage.

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Originally Posted by stirlsilver

I really, really really really need a roll bar at least. Just sitting inside my stage one and looking at the structure of everything above the firewall leaves no doubt that should I roll my car, the roof will be level with the bonnet!!!

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Don't be so sure, Series Land Rovers have a much stronger roof and sides than later models. I rolled a 2A hardtop at very high speed and the side near the B pillar pushed in about 2 inches. My only injuries were caused by things flying around inside, so now I have a cargo barrier and tie things down.

As for the sensationalist heading to this thread, showing pictures of mangled Defenders and saying they need a roll bar is the stuff of A Current Affair or the like, not a Land Rover forum. The first one was hit by a truck ffs.

Jeff

:rocket:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Jeff

Don't be so sure, Series Land Rovers have a much stronger roof and sides than later models. I rolled a 2A hardtop at very high speed and the side near the B pillar pushed in about 2 inches. My only injuries were caused by things flying around inside, so now I have a cargo barrier and tie things down.

As for the sensationalist heading to this thread, showing pictures of mangled Defenders and saying they need a roll bar is the stuff of A Current Affair or the like, not a Land Rover forum. The first one was hit by a truck ffs.

Jeff

:rocket:

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In my opinion and the opinion of the majority of the Land Rover users that do or have done expeditions, you are wrong. There are heaps of Landy's seriously damaged in Africa and South America.
Safety is a must topic for any forum not only Land Rover
If you read the previous post you will see that you are the only one with a sensationalist view of the topic
Cheers

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Jeff

Don't be so sure, Series Land Rovers have a much stronger roof and sides than later models. I rolled a 2A hardtop at very high speed and the side near the B pillar pushed in about 2 inches. My only injuries were caused by things flying around inside, so now I have a cargo barrier and tie things down.

As for the sensationalist heading to this thread, showing pictures of mangled Defenders and saying they need a roll bar is the stuff of A Current Affair or the like, not a Land Rover forum. The first one was hit by a truck ffs.

Jeff

:rocket:

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I agree - Series vehicles are much stronger. I think the photos are a bit sensationalist when it comes to Discos and RR's but 110/90's are woeful, particularly as has been stated in the A-pillar. The A pillars are brittle alloy and snap easily, without absorbing much energy at all.

I had my bar bent and welded by an exhaust shop, the owner also makes cages for speedway cars. When you think about it, exhaust shops are skilled at bending tube, its just a bit lighter. The bar cost me less than $300 all up, including the mounts to the chassis and paint. Estimated price to construct an external A pillar hoop with cross bars and links to the rear bar was another $300.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Jeff

Don't be so sure, Series Land Rovers have a much stronger roof and sides than later models. I rolled a 2A hardtop at very high speed and the side near the B pillar pushed in about 2 inches. My only injuries were caused by things flying around inside, so now I have a cargo barrier and tie things down.

As for the sensationalist heading to this thread, showing pictures of mangled Defenders and saying they need a roll bar is the stuff of A Current Affair or the like, not a Land Rover forum. The first one was hit by a truck ffs.

Jeff

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Yep, I agree Jeff. I rolled my Series 3 onto its roof, some panel damage but it stayed basically square!
I'm also a cargo barrier convert.:D

Larry

Couple of pictures of my roll bar. The main hoop continues through the floor to the chassis outrigger. The rear stays are fixed to the tub rails.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Larry

Yep, I agree Jeff. I rolled my Series 3 onto its roof, some panel damage but it stayed basically square!
I'm also a cargo barrier convert.:D

Larry

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Was this a wagon or a ute? I've got a single cab ute and yeah... I doubt the roof would hold the vehicles weight.

I would love to make up a full external cage, but fabricating that flange system on the front guards seems to be a lot of work! A single roll bar should do the trick for me... Mind you it would do nothing if you roll onto a tree square with the door... hmmm.

I had a rollcage built for my Defender - exterior at the front and interior from the B-pillar. Cost me about $7k all up by the time I had it shipped from the UK, modified for our regs, engineered and fitted.

I would love to make up a full external cage, but fabricating that flange system on the front guards seems to be a lot of work! A single roll bar should do the trick for me... Mind you it would do nothing if you roll onto a tree square with the door... hmmm.[/quote]

Might be an option to import that Flange and mount system that sits under the guards and bolts to the outriger only, then fabricate the rest here.

Why not just cut a hole in the guard in front of the A pillar and run the bar straight through to the chassis outrigger? Makes removing the guard a bit harder but even if the bar has to be cut and rewelded with an internal sleeve thats not really a big deal.