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Thread: It went thud..............

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    It went thud..............

    Picture this, Me and my two boys went for a wee drive down the river banks today, the tracks are a bit overgrown and while driving down the tracks drop the front left wheel into a hole,thud. No problem thinks I, and selects reverse. bang- bang-bang as the lugs on the tyre catch on the front bumper. Oh sh*t says I, thinking that I've broken a spring! Twas not the spring though, but the locating bolt through the spring had sheared off and the wheel was almost against the front bumper. So here I am, in a place your not ment to be, in a truck with a diff off-set of about 5 inches and if you make a hard right turn the tyre wedges in the bumper and stops you dead. OH BUGGER!
    So I did the only thing I could do and drove it the 10 km home very quietly over the stop banks to get out to the road, hoping the diff wouldn't move any further forward crawling up the slopes, then about 50 km/h on the road home. I tested the brakes a few times at the beginning to make sure the diff wouldn't go rearward either.

    the drivers side




    the passingers side




    the diff moved to the front and the springs migrated to the back




    I think the location bolt gave way many years ago, with just the U bolts locating the diff to the springs. This is the underside of what was left of the bolt, still located in the diff mount on top of the spring.



    I did notice a few days ago the steering rod had rubbed on the spring, I know now that at that time the diff had moved about an inch forward
    Last edited by jimbo110; 17th January 2008 at 12:55 PM.
    1995 Defender 110 300TDI :D
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    Broken centre bolts are not uncommon on leaf spring vehicles of all kinds, including Landrovers. They almost always result from loose U-bolts, and it should be noted that checking the tightness of U-bolts is listed as part of the 20,000km service in my S2a owner's handbook.

    John
    John

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    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
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    Quote Originally Posted by JDNSW View Post
    Broken centre bolts are not uncommon on leaf spring vehicles of all kinds, including Landrovers. They almost always result from loose U-bolts, and it should be noted that checking the tightness of U-bolts is listed as part of the 20,000km service in my S2a owner's handbook.

    John
    And don't just check by tightening them, these buggers took a hell of a lot of heat to get the nuts moving, they can feel tight but not have much clamping force at all. Loosen them then tighten them.
    1995 Defender 110 300TDI :D
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    wait till you have it happen on the rear and it walks far enough forwards that the spline runs out of travel.....

    that makes some very interesting noises....
    Dave

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    Quote Originally Posted by Blknight.aus View Post
    wait till you have it happen on the rear and it walks far enough forwards that the spline runs out of travel.....

    that makes some very interesting noises....
    Been there, done that - just as the sun was setting. Just before the propshaft let go, I was wondering why the vehicle was crabbing up the track. Salisbury pushed back into fuel tank and pin holed rear plate on Salisbury. Fuel tank OK.

    Had a spare front centre bolt (rear ones are thicker). Passed winch cable under 109 back to diff to pull it back forward. Slipped the splined propshaft together and bashed the leaves back into alignment with an axe before refitting centre bolt. Got back to camp after 9pm. Welded up pin hole in diff when I got home and replace centre bolt with rear type.

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    Quote Originally Posted by jimbo110 View Post
    And don't just check by tightening them, these buggers took a hell of a lot of heat to get the nuts moving, they can feel tight but not have much clamping force at all. Loosen them then tighten them.
    Yes, and note that while these U-bolts will stand a lot of tension, they are quite easy to twist off if the nut is seized on. Note that they come in both BSF and UNF threads (possibly even metric on late S3 or after market). Locking may be from plates with bent tabs, double nuts or self locking nuts. Use of lock washers does not seem to be secure enough. I prefer the double nuts, as these can protect the threads, which otherwise tend to get butchered by rocks if protruding beyond the end of the nut.

    John
    John

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    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

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    Quote Originally Posted by JDNSW View Post
    Yes, and note that while these U-bolts will stand a lot of tension, they are quite easy to twist off if the nut is seized on. Note that they come in both BSF and UNF threads (possibly even metric on late S3 or after market). Locking may be from plates with bent tabs, double nuts or self locking nuts. Use of lock washers does not seem to be secure enough. I prefer the double nuts, as these can protect the threads, which otherwise tend to get butchered by rocks if protruding beyond the end of the nut.

    John
    John, unless the U bolts are near new, I dont bother trying to undo them, If they wont come off with the rattle gun I just oxy cut them off and replace them with new ones. If they are tight enough that they wont come off reasonably easy, then removing them usually damages the u bolt and the threads, the amount of time saved fitting new u bolts more than makes up for the cost, Regards Frank.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Tank View Post
    John, unless the U bolts are near new, I dont bother trying to undo them, If they wont come off with the rattle gun I just oxy cut them off and replace them with new ones. If they are tight enough that they wont come off reasonably easy, then removing them usually damages the u bolt and the threads, the amount of time saved fitting new u bolts more than makes up for the cost, Regards Frank.
    Perhaps - but cost vs time may be a secondary consideration when the nearest supply of U-bolts is 500km away, it is Friday night and they don't open till Monday and you need the vehicle Saturday - or the nearest civilisation is 100km away, and if you can't fix the broken centre bolt, its a long walk. And you don't want to break the U-bolt.

    John
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

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    John thats' true, but the majority of people pay to have their car fixed and it's certainly cheaper and a better job to boot.
    After spending a couple of hours with a breaker bar and a 3' pipe extension and half a gallon of Penetrene, and a crick in the back, the threads are usually cactus, along with the nuts and the bolts have been twisted, it is much safer to replace the lot, at least you will be able to tighten a new set back to what it should be.
    Even if it is Friday night and you need the car the next day, there is no guarantee that one of the bolts wont break or the threads will be buggered and unless you have a good tap and die set you are stuck anyway, Regards Frank.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Tank View Post
    John thats' true, but the majority of people pay to have their car fixed .......

    Probably NOT true for Series Landrovers? Certainly, if you are paying someone to do it, you are absolutely right - if any problem, cut it off and replace it.

    But if you don't have a replacement available, or strapped for cash, maybe the best thing is to remove using a nut splitter, take the U-bolt off, clean up the thread with a thread file or even a wire brush if no die-nut is available, and then refit with a new nut.

    John
    John

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