winch operation

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Originally Posted by solmanic

Jeez - I hope no-one came racing in or out of your driveway while that was going on :D.


Reading this, methinks someone might be angling for a bullbar mounted electric winch for their birthday ;)

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Yes, twice... people tend to drive around a 16mm bar though :)

I think everyone would like an electric winch, but its something that has always been low down on my lists of wants... IE - Its not even low on my lists of needs.

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Originally Posted by Aaron

Ive done playing with it now. I have a Big Haul 4.8t winch for those interested.

Im waiting for Photobucket to finish maintenance to upload the somewhat boring photos.

I didnt use any blocks as it was hardly a steep slope at all.

The effort was very minimal, and I cant imagine more sever conditions been that hard.

In all honesty, the only hard work was setting up the cable. 16mm wire rope isnt exactly string.

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Most commonly bought snatch blocks will have too narrow a groove in the pulley wheel for 16mm (5/8") wire cable, you may have to go to a Rigging supplier to get the correct size snatch block for your wire rope, if so buy the largest diameter pulley as 16mm 7 strand (solid wire core) tirfor rope will not take kindly to being wound around the standard diameter snatch block pulley wheel

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Originally Posted by Tank

Most commonly bought snatch blocks will have too narrow a groove in the pulley wheel for 16mm (5/8") wire cable, you may have to go to a Rigging supplier to get the correct size snatch block for your wire rope, if so buy the largest diameter pulley as 16mm 7 strand (solid wire core) tirfor rope will not take kindly to being wound around the standard diameter snatch block pulley wheel

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Im glad your brought that up. Infact, I thought the same thing and looked at it this morning. Ive got a TJM Ox snatch block, Im not sure what size it is, but the 16mm doesnt look out of place to me (amateur). I was going to do a photo, but its all coiled up now, Ill do it tomorrow.

edit - So its the diameter, not the groove thats the problem?

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Originally Posted by Aaron

Im glad your brought that up. Infact, I thought the same thing and looked at it this morning. Ive got a TJM Ox snatch block, Im not sure what size it is, but the 16mm doesnt look out of place to me (amateur). I was going to do a photo, but its all coiled up now, Ill do it tomorrow.

edit - So its the diameter, not the groove thats the problem?

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You can use the standard diameter snatch blocks, but the sharper the radius the more damage done to the cable, when a cable changes direction over a pulley under load the inside (the part of the wire rope closest to the groove in the pulley wheel) part of the rope is trying to compress and the outside is trying to stretch, if you for instance tried to run a 16mm wire rope over a 2" dia. pulley under load you would probably damage it and make it unsafe to use, Don't forget that winch/crane and tirfor wire rope has a solid core, a 7th strand same as the six strands around the outside, it is designed not to crush on winch drums and tirfor jaws.
If the 16mm cable sits in the groove of your snatch block, with no gap under the centre and the cable not riding on the edges of the groove, then it should be alright, too wide a groove is not as bad with 7 strand rope as it will not pinch and possibly break wires in the outer strands, it's usually cheaper to buy quality rigging gear (shackles etc.) at a rigging supply place and they should be able to help with advice, Regards Frank.

Taking Tanks point a bit further. The important thing about ropes and bollards is the ratio of the two diameters, i,e D : d where D is the ratio of the bollard/snatch block and d is the diameter of the rope. The larger this diameter the better.

Used to test polymers for a living. One job was testing a solid monofilament that I had made which was about 2 mm in diameter. Tested around 50 mm bollards got one result. Tested around 150 mm bollards the apparent strength went up 10+%. The apparent increase in strength was solely due to diameter of test bollards.

Conversely if had used bollards smaller then 50 mm the apparent strength would have decreased.

Regards


Brendan

PS Are hand winches peferred in Australia over electric winches? Or is it a cost judgement that makes hand winches more common in Aus?

snip

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Originally Posted by leeds

PS Are hand winches peferred in Australia over electric winches? Or is it a cost judgement that makes hand winches more common in Aus?

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Tirfors are hard work up a slope or recovering in mud. PITA to set up & a PITA to use. And a PITA to store in the car if space is at a premium.

Basically you'll try everything else first before breaking out the Tirfor.

You see leccies used more often.. Hard to know how many have both.

Regards
Max P

This is a mate on the end of my Bighaul Handwinch near Jenolan, i can you they are hard work:o

http://www.4wdlinks.com.au/albums/bazzar/ahe.sized.jpg

I had slid sideways into a tree on a downhill and needed to be pulled sideways to get straight.

The strap on the front was to stop the front sliding downhill:(

http://www.4wdlinks.com.au/albums/bazzar/ahf.sized.jpg

They do work well though.

Baz.

Baz, a good example of how versatile they can be.

A pure emergency alternative handwinch is a Jackmate coupled with a hi-lift.

Rescue 42, Inc.: JackMate® Lift Jack Accessory

a few more pics

JackMate

And hi-lift appear to have their own version

https://www.expeditionexchange.com/hilift/ (scroll down a bit)

the jackmate makes rigging the chain a hellavalot easier, just slide the jackmate up & down the shaft to suit.

I imported mine a couple of years ago, but Opposite Lock sell them now. Their site seems to be playing up atm though.

I've found the jackmate as versatile as advertised, including straightening a bent tie rod. If you carry a hi-lift, the jackmate doesn't take up much extra space at all. Needs a chain though for all situations.

Only disadvantage is that it makes a hi-lift even heavier to lug uphill.

Regards
Max P